Experiencing Japanese Comfort Food Culture in Tokyo

Just as everyone has a cherished comfort food, so the people in Japan possess essential dishes that are the heart of the Japanese diet. These include the fundamental Ichijū Sansai (one soup, three side dishes), the deep tradition of dashi broth, soup, and Onigiri (rice ball). 

The foundations of Washoku (UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2013), now beloved worldwide, were laid during the Edo period (lasting for about 260 years from 1603). This peaceful era saw Edo (now Tokyo) evolve into a bustling hub where arts and learning thrived, drawing people and resources from all over Japan. This convergence led to a major evolution in the nation's food heritage.

This article will introduce you to this enduring food culture, dishes that are a part of daily life, yet reflect the deep philosophy and aesthetic values passed down from the Edo period.

Global Onigiri Trends: The History, Evolution, and the Healthy Harmony of Traditional Washoku from Tokyo

Essential Japanese home cooking traditions, such as Ichijū Sansai, the culture of dashi broth, soup, and Onigiri, largely evolved during the Edo period. When it became the capital, Edo grew into a major city with a vibrant influx of people, resources, and ideas. This convergence resulted in the fusion of diverse food cultures. Consequently, these meals were adapted to the daily diet of the common people, while also fostering personalized flavors within each family. What journey did the quintessential Japanese comfort food take to be handed down over such a long history to modern life?

What Exactly Is Ichijū Sansai?

The structure of Ichijū Sansai resembles a fixed meal: staple rice, one soup, three side dishes (one main and two sides), and Japanese pickles. This menu format originated in the samurai society in the 14th century but became the standard dining style for commoners in the late Edo period, although a simpler Ichijū Issai or Nisai (rice, soup, and one or two sides) was more typical. It was also during this era that the custom of eating three meals a day was established.

Ichijū Sansai: Its Harmony and Advantages

The Ichijū Sansai menu format encapsulates the wisdom of the Japanese diet, delivering both nutritional balance and cultural harmony. The balanced structure ensures a healthy intake of essential nutrients. By applying the Washoku ideals of Five Flavors, Five Colors, and Five Cooking Methods, the meal becomes visually stunning and rich in diverse tastes. People connect with the transition of the seasons through seasonal ingredients. Additionally, traditional Japanese meals are low in fat and easily incorporate fermented foods (miso, soy sauce), aiding in gut health and fostering total mind-body wellness.

Exploring Dashi and Soup Culture

The culture of soup dishes developed as the Ichijū Sansai dining style became a fixture. Miso soup became a crucial source of nutrition, especially for supplementing protein and vegetables. Essential to its flavor is miso, a traditional Japanese fermented seasoning made from protein-rich soybeans which are fermented over time using techniques with over 1,000-year history, allowing the body to easily digest and absorb their nutrients. By adding a variety of seasonal vegetables to miso soup, people ensured they received necessary nutrients.

A comforting bowl of miso soup.

Furthermore, the "soup dish culture" in Edo was deeply tied to the urban culture's value of "the beauty of simplicity," a drive to maximize valuable resources. Soups were a sophisticated example of Iki (the distinctive Edo flair for understated style). This refinement provided abundant flavor and dashi savoriness using minimal ingredients, establishing itself as a Tokyo (Edo) food culture that made dining flavorful and economical.

The dashi culture developed simultaneously with the soup dish tradition, driven by the wider distribution of katsuobushi (dried and smoked bonito). Extracting broth from katsuobushi became the key determinant of flavor in miso soup and other simmered dishes, marking the establishment of dashi as the essential taste.

The appeal of soup dishes in Washoku lies in the trinity of "aroma," "UMAMI," and "warmth," which provide holistic contentment. The aroma offers a relaxing effect. The rich UMAMI components in the broth accentuate the flavors of the other ingredients, creating profound satisfaction with less salt. Additionally, warm soup gently heats the body from the inside, promoting blood circulation while comforting the soul.

The Long History of Onigiri: Japan's Beloved Rice Ball

Japan's beloved rice balls.

Onigiri are cooked rice balls, shaped by hand. The name not only refers to the act of "forming" (nigiru) but also functions as a ward against evil spirits. Before the Edo period, Onigiri was reserved for specific uses, such as offerings or rations. 

However, its role shifted after the Edo period began. As Edo (Tokyo) grew into one of the world's largest cities, the heightened pace of city life drove the acceptance of Onigiri as a daily staple and travel food for the general public. This evolution was necessary due to the unique context of Edo's fast-paced urban lifestyle, where time was at a premium.  Since then, a wide variety of ingredients, cooking styles, and shapes have been inherited within Onigiri culture. 

Today, the worldwide embrace of Onigiri is due to the admiration of international visitors and the influence of Japanese modern culture. This popularity stems from the gently chewy and tender texture, the rich UMAMI and sweetness characteristic of Japanese rice, which is praised for being "delicious even without sauce." Crucially, this flavor is enhanced by salt. Furthermore, the ability of Onigiri to easily meet diverse dietary needs (vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free) is another key reason for its global appeal.

Experiencing Japanese Home Cooking in Tokyo: Ichijū Sansai and Onigiri

Well balanced Japanese set meal.

As a city directly inheriting the cultural flow of the Edo period, Tokyo offers a distinctive culinary narrative. While dishes like Sushi and Tempura evolved into luxury fine dining, Ichijū Sansai and Onigiri are fundamentally home cooking. Even without a personal connection to a local family, visitors have many options for experiencing these dishes in Tokyo. Simply visiting places like Teishoku-ya (Japanese set meal diners) or specialty Onigiri shops allows you to enjoy the comforting home cooking beloved in Japan. 

Modern Tokyo has become a "culinary crossroads" where selected rice, a rich variety of ingredients, local traditions, and the latest culinary trends converge. This means the city’s major appeal is the chance to find variations of Ichijū Sansai and Onigiri crafted using high-quality ingredients and innovative culinary techniques.

For more details on Sushi and Tempura, check out these related articles: Sushi and Tempura.

Onigiri Specialty Restaurant ”Onigiri Tonjiru Yamataro”

The storefront of Onigiri Tonjiru Yamataro.

A notable place in Tokyo where visitors can experience soup culture alongside Onigiri is the　specialty shop, Onigiri Tonjiru Yamataro.

The restaurant serves its Onigiri freshly made, hand-forming only after receiving the order, so it arrives warm with a pleasant airy texture at the table. Each rice ball is generously filled, making it substantial and satisfying. From the counter seats, guests can watch the chefs prepare the Onigiri right in front of them. Diners can also enjoy Tonjiru (pork miso soup), a popular soup dish in Japan, to complete the meal.

Chie Hiyama, owner and chef at Onigiri Tonjiru Yamataro.

Chie Hiyama, the owner and chef at Onigiri Tonjiru Yamataro, aims to create an "unforgettable dining experience." Her greatest focus is on delivering the "warmth" and "comfort" in handmade food. 

Ms. Hiyama says that Onigiri is a deeply personal dish, linked to memories of her mother's cooking. She adds that her favorite pairing is Onigiri with Tonjiru. Her technique was polished during her apprenticeship at the renowned Onigiri shop "Bongo," before opening this restaurant with her husband in October 2022.

Freshly handmade Onigiri being gently formed upon order.

Currently, the recognition of Onigiri is widespread globally. While some may have tasted the mass-produced versions sold at convenience stores, the taste and texture of handmade Onigiri are different. The special experience offered by a dedicated shop, which focuses on selecting the perfect rice, salt, and ingredients, is incomparable.

The Innovative Onigiri Experience: From Traditional Japanese Fillings to Korean and Hawaiian-Inspired Creations

Warm, large and generously filled : Yamataro's signature Onigiri.

The Onigiri served at this restaurant are warm and generously sized. With abundant fillings, every bite offers a balance of rice and ingredients. When you take a mouthful, the gently formed rice delicately loosens, highlighting the natural sweetness special to Japanese rice. 

They choose a rice variety that has slightly larger grains and pleasant stickiness. Since the quality of the rice is affected every year by climate and growing region, they select the best rice annually. 

The nori (seaweed) used to wrap the Onigiri is crucial. It is commonly wrapped around Onigiri to prevent the rice from sticking to hands and to keep the rice from drying out. In the restaurant's case, because the rice grains are gently airy shaped, the nori maintains the Onigiri’s form. They use a variety with the ideal thickness and crispness to complement the rice. Enjoying the combination of warm rice and crisp nori is a signature feature of this kind of specialty shop.

Handwritten menus are displayed on the wall.

A key feature of specialty Onigiri shops is the variety of fillings available. Offerings range from classics like Salmon, Grilled Cod Roe, and Perilla & Kombu to popular choices such as Soy-Sauce Marinated Egg Yolk and Seasoned Cooked Minced Meat. The traditional Onigiri is evolving, merging with innovative ingredients, reflecting modern Tokyo where global food cultures intersect. Ms. Hiyama's overseas travel and residency experiences drive these creative menu options. Popular examples include the Sriracha-accented Spicy Tuna, the Hawaiian Garlic Shrimp, and the Korean Yangnyeom Chicken Onigiri, illustrating the international palate of the city.

Tonjiru cooking in a large pot.

The soup served alongside Onigiri is Tonjiru, a popular Japanese dish made with pork and vegetables simmered in miso. "Tonjiru is the perfect soup to complete a balanced meal, providing nutrients that Onigiri alone cannot fully supply, while also being deeply satisfying and filling,” says Ms. Hiyama. 

The soup is made daily in large quantities, filled with abundant ingredients such as pork, burdock root, fried tofu, carrots, and daikon. They emphasize the dashi broth preparation, using kelp and a blend of thick bonito flakes and thin flakes from mackerel, horse mackerel, and sardine. This complex broth, deepened by the UMAMI from the pork and vegetables, delivers Yamataro's fulfilling Tonjiru.

Yamataro's Tonjiru, ready to be enjoyed.

From a sustainability perspective, Ms. Hiyama makes a conscious effort to control preparation quantities daily to minimize waste. Managing the many types of Onigiri fillings requires awareness of their shelf life. To avoid losses, she ensures perishable ingredients are sold out by the end of the day.

Ms. Hiyama feels that while popular ingredients may change, the core strengths of traditional cuisine like Onigiri, such as its simplicity and portability, will endure. She is planning new projects, such as promoting "Shio-Musubi," an Onigiri made only with salt, designed to encourage customers to purely enjoy the natural flavor of the rice itself.

The counter seating where guests can enjoy the live preparation of the Onigiri.

Tokyo is a city where diverse cultures meet, allowing visitors to savor innovative comfort food, a fusion of Japanese traditional cuisine, contemporary regional specialties, and international food cultures. Continuing the legacy established in the Edo period while embracing innovation, Japanese home cooking is constantly evolving and growing.

For more information about Onigiri Tonjiru Yamataro, visit the website (Japanese only).