Mastering Tempura in Tokyo: Counter Seats and Fresh Frying

Watch the chef’s precise movements across the counter, hear the gentle sizzle as ingredients are lowered into the oil, and see the batter turn a perfect golden hue. Then comes the first bite—the light, crisp snap. It’s a culinary art unique to Japan that engages all five senses.

In this article, we introduce what tempura is, how it developed its own unique evolution in Tokyo, and how to enjoy an exceptional tempura experience in the city. From its transformation from a simple street food to a fine dining cuisine, to the skills inherited by generations of chefs—and now, to the forward-looking efforts such as oil recycling and full use of ingredients—you’ll discover the depth of Tokyo’s food culture before your journey even begins.

The Charm of Tempura: Savor the Chef’s Skill and Flavor at the Counter

The temperature and frying time for tempura are carefully adjusted by the chef according to the day’s temperature, humidity, and the size of each ingredient.

The true beauty of tempura lies in enjoying it the moment it’s finished. When you take a bite while it’s still sizzling hot, the crisp, delicate coating and the juicy interior come together in perfect harmony. Behind this fleeting moment of perfection is an extraordinary level of craftsmanship and intuition honed through years of experience.

Tempura isn’t a dish you can perfect just by following a recipe. The frying technique changes with the season, temperature, and humidity—and tempura masters rely not only on numbers but on instinct. They listen closely to the sound of the oil to judge the perfect moment. The fine crackling when ingredients first hit the oil signals that flavor is being drawn out; as the bubbles grow louder and coarser, it’s the sign that the tempura is done. By listening, the chef knows exactly when to lift each piece from the oil.

Veteran tempura chefs often describe the process as “a conversation with the tempura.” They say the food itself tells them when it’s ready. This kind of skill is learned through years of watching, listening, and feeling, until the body instinctively knows when each piece has reached perfection.

There’s another great pleasure in eating tempura—the counter. For the chef, the counter is a stage, and they are the performer. Every move, from preparing the ingredients to the final fry, happens in full view of the guests, leaving no room for pretense. This open style, where the entire process unfolds before your eyes from start to finish, is a uniquely Japanese dining experience.

Every movement behind the counter is part of the performance. Even the simple act of peeling a shrimp reflects a sense of beauty and precision. If the chef moves too slowly, it breaks the rhythm and makes guests uneasy—so each motion must be quick, confident, and deliberate. At the same time, the chef watches how fast each guest eats, adjusting the timing of the next fry accordingly.

Along with the chef’s stage-like performance and the food itself, the conversation across the counter is another joy of the experience. The chef explains each dish, talks about ingredients, and offers tips on how to enjoy them—the dialogue becomes part of the meal. A tempura counter is more than a place to eat; it’s a live performance that engages all five senses.

It’s Fish Tempura That Defines Tokyo Style: Fresh Seafood Fried and Touched with Dashi and Soy Sauce

Shrimp tempura is one of the most popular items on any tempura menu, served at nearly every tempura restaurant.

Tempura traces its origins back to the 16th century, when the technique of deep-frying was introduced to Japan by the Portuguese. In western Japan, it evolved as a way to fry mostly vegetables. But when the practice reached eastern Japan—today’s Tokyo—it took on a new form, transforming into a unique style centered on fresh seafood.

Since the early days, Tokyo’s coastal areas have been home to large fish markets—first in Nihonbashi, later in Tsukiji—where fresh seafood from Tokyo Bay was brought in daily. Tempura shops were located just a short walk or bike ride away from these markets, allowing chefs to use the freshest catch of the day. This close connection to the markets is what made Edo-style tempura evolve around seafood.

However, seafood often carried a distinct fishy odor. In an effort to overcome this, Tokyo’s tempura chefs came up with the idea of using fragrant sesame oil extracted from roasted sesame seeds. Its rich aroma masked the smell while perfectly complementing and enhancing the Umami of the seafood. Umami, the fifth basic taste discovered in Japan, defines the distinctive flavor of dashi.

Seafood caught in the waters of Tokyo Bay and fried in sesame oil came to be known as Edo-mae tempura. With this distinct style, tempura evolved beyond a simple fried dish to become a culinary tradition uniquely rooted in Tokyo’s food culture.

Next to the frying station, you’ll find an array of fresh ingredients—crab, shrimp, squid, scallops, and vibrant seasonal vegetables sourced directly from contracted farmers.

No story of Edo-mae tempura is complete without the seafood of Tokyo Bay. Signature ingredients of Edo-mae tempura include shiba shrimp (shiba-ebi) from Shibaura, delicate white fish such as Japanese whiting (kisu) and flathead (megochi), and conger eel (anago). The fish market that existed when Edomae tempura was born has since transformed into Toyosu Market, now Japan’s largest central wholesale market and a hub where top-quality ingredients from all over the country gather. It’s this fusion of premium ingredients from all over Japan with the time-honored Edo frying technique that defines Tokyo’s tempura today. As Japan’s culinary heart and a true city of gastronomy, Tokyo stands among the world’s greatest for its diversity of ingredients and flavors.

Edo-mae tempura also comes with its own distinct way of eating. Traditionally, each piece is dipped in tentsuyu—a light, flavorful sauce made from dashi and soy sauce. Today, many restaurants offer new twists, pairing tempura with salt, lemon, or other seasonings that highlight the natural flavors of each ingredient.

Despite its refined image today, tempura originally began as a humble street food for the common people. It was so casual that there was once a saying: “If you eat tempura, you’ll never get ahead in life.” But things began to change in the 20th century. The modern counter style emerged—where customers sit while the chef stands and cooks before them—and tempura restaurants became gathering spots for artists and intellectuals. In this way, tempura transformed from a quick bite at a food stall into a high-end dish reserved for special occasions.

Experiencing Tempura in Tokyo: Insights from Tenichi Ginza Honten

Store Manager Chef Ōki, Tempura Tenichi Ginza Honten

A symbol of tempura’s evolution from humble street fare to fine dining can be found in Ginza—Tenichi Ginza Honten, established in 1930. Once a social salon for Tokyo’s cultural elite, the restaurant flourished after the war as a place where foreign dignitaries were entertained. Tenichi also pioneered the use of a blend of sesame and corn oils, creating tempura that’s light, crisp, and never greasy. Today, Store Manager Chef Kenji Ōki continues to carry on this legacy. With over 20 years of experience, he stands at the counter each day, upholding the craftsmanship and philosophy passed down from his predecessors.

There are counter seats and table seating available.

“The counter is one of the greatest pleasures of eating tempura,” says Chef Ōki. “If you want to truly enjoy tempura in Tokyo, visit a restaurant with a counter. You can watch the chef’s movements up close and taste each piece at its very best—fresh from the fryer.” He continues, “Serving freshly made dishes directly across the counter is probably quite rare outside Japan. Our teachers often said, ‘This is your stage—carry yourself like a performer.’”

A menu with Japanese brush calligraphy and the sound of ingredients meeting hot oil and the sight of the batter turning golden, every detail is part of the experience.

When asked about the proper way or order to eat tempura, Chef Ōki says, “There aren’t any strict rules—I want people to enjoy it however they like. But there is a recommended order,” he adds. “If you start with something heavy, you won’t have room for the rest. Begin with something light, like shrimp—the king of tempura.”

Tenichi also offers recommendations on how best to enjoy each ingredient. Scallops are served with lemon and salt to highlight their natural sweetness; conger eel comes with curry salt for a rich yet approachable flavor. And as Chef Ōki notes, matsutake mushrooms—one of Japan’s most prized delicacies—are best enjoyed with a sprinkle of salt and a squeeze of sudachi, a small aromatic Japanese citrus that enhances their fragrance.

When scallops are freshly fried, the center remains delicately rare. The selection of vegetable tempura changes with the seasons, showcasing the freshest produce of the moment.

Tempura is also a remarkably sustainable cuisine. At Tenichi, the guiding principle is that every edible part of each ingredient should be served to the guest.

“When cutting off a fish’s head, if you slice straight through, a bit of meat is left behind,” explains Chef Ōki. “We angle the knife instead, so that every edible part can be served to the guest.” Even the shrimp legs are fried and served, while the heads are used to make a rich miso soup.

At Tenichi, sustainability extends beyond ingredients to the very oil used for frying. The restaurant actively recycles its tempura oil, carrying forward the Edo-era spirit of mottainai—the idea of avoiding waste—into modern times, and continuing a practice that has long been an important part of Tokyo’s culinary culture. The used oil is repurposed as SAF (Sustainable Aviation Fuel), a groundbreaking initiative that highlights how the culinary culture of Tokyo—a major international metropolis—contributes to the global pursuit of a sustainable future. As Chef Ōki puts it, “You can enjoy tempura here, and the oil that cooked your meal might one day help power the plane that takes you home.” It’s a fitting symbol of Tokyo’s forward-looking approach.

Finally, we asked Chef Ōki what makes eating tempura in Tokyo such a special experience.
“While there are more and more places overseas where you can enjoy tempura, what makes Tokyo’s tempura truly special is that you can eat it piping hot, freshly fried right in front of you. Serving each piece at its very best—that’s the essence of real tempura. If you come all the way to Tokyo, I hope you’ll experience that for yourself.”

Tempura is, in many ways, a culture of eating food straight from the fryer. That’s why Chef Ōki often invites guests who’ve reserved table seating to move to the counter if a spot opens up. Many who come in with table reservations end up saying, “It tastes so much better when it’s hot like this.”

“I just want to keep frying tempura with joy and sharing its beauty with others,” says Chef Ōki. “If that spirit can carry on for the next hundred or two hundred years, that would make me happy.” It’s a craft that lives on precisely because it’s done by human hands.

Experiencing Edo-mae tempura in Tokyo is sure to become a lasting memory—a taste and moment that will stay with you long after you return home.