Tokyo Wagashi: The Essence of Kawaii Confections

Tokyo is brimming with heart-fluttering adorable sweets such as soft-serve ice cream, parfaits, and shaved ice. Meanwhile, the Japanese word "kawaii," now proliferating worldwide, goes beyond mere cuteness to encompass a wide range of nuances such as poignant adorableness and profound, tasteful depth. When you gaze at these endearing sweets, you will surely recognize how they beautifully capture the fleeting shifts of the seasons, the pure allure of their ingredients, and a distinctive, one-of-a-kind worldview.

The same holds true for traditional wagashi (traditional Japanese sweets), handed down through generations in Japan—it could even be said that wagashi itself possesses the very essence of kawaii. Against this backdrop, we spoke with Yasunari AKIZUKI, manager of Eitaro Sohonpo, a historic wagashi shop founded over 200 years ago, about adorable wagashi confections and the wagashi scene in Tokyo.

Wagashi confections: Expressing a distinctive worldview

Wagashi confections are traditional Japanese sweets made primarily from grains such as rice, along with beans, sugar, and other natural ingredients. Deeply connected to Japan's seasonal festivals and rituals, many wagashi confections beautifully express the essence of the four seasons through their designs, colors, and forms.

For example, nerikiri, enjoyed alongside matcha, is a wagashi confection that truly lets you feel "kawaii." It is crafted by boiling white kidney beans to create a smooth paste called shiroan, then blending in sugar and kneading the mixture thoroughly. Artisans color and shape it into delicate forms of seasonal plants and scenes—cherry blossoms in spring, fresh green foliage, vibrant autumn leaves, and more. Some even incorporate lines from traditional Japanese waka poetry, lending not only visual beauty but also a profound depth that conveys unique aesthetic sensibilities and evocative imagery, which is why nerikiri is often hailed as "edible art."

Wagashi confections range from everyday snacks to luxurious treats once enjoyed exclusively by the nobility. Yet each one is infused with the essence of ancient Japanese customs, the delight of the seasons, and timeless beauty, and their true charm lies in the way you can feel all of this simply by looking at them and savoring them.

Yasunari AKIZUKI of Eitaro Sohonpo: This historic wagashi confectionery shop, founded over 200 years ago, has faithfully carried on the traditions of wagashi as traced back to the Edo period.

Akizuki of Eitaro Sohonpo says: "In recent years, many tourists visiting Japan have developed a strong interest in the deep connection between wagashi confections and the seasons. Sakura mochi, enjoyed when the cherry blossoms are at their most beautiful, is especially popular. Spring brings a wealth of cherry blossom- and strawberry-themed wagashi confections, but when you visit Japan, I truly hope you will also take the time to experience Japanese sweets."

Sakura mochi: Cherry blossom-inspired wagashi confections savored in spring; the photo shows Kansai (Osaka area) style on the left and Kanto (Tokyo area) style on the right.

Sakura mochi is a wagashi confection made by wrapping sweet, boiled bean paste (anko) in a rice-based dough, then encasing the whole in salted sakura leaves. Enjoyed since ancient times during the cherry blossom season, it delights with its distinctly spring-like appearance, the subtle fragrance of sakura, and its gentle sweetness. Beyond its delicious taste, sakura mochi lets you sense the preciousness of spring's arrival and truly cherish the beauty of the season.

Sakura mochi styles differ by region. In the Kanto region (including eastern Japan), the anko is wrapped in a thin, crepe-like dough made from rice flour. In the Kansai region (including western Japan), the anko is wrapped in mochi. Just as with other foods, wagashi confections vary by region, and Tokyo has its own wagashi that have long been cherished and enjoyed.

Daifuku, ame, amanatto, and kintsuba: Timeless Tokyo wagashi confections that have been cherished for centuries

Akizuki says: "For example, nerikiri flourished in Kyoto and falls into the category of luxurious wagashi confections once enjoyed by people of high status. In contrast, many wagashi confections that developed in Tokyo lean more toward the taste of ordinary people. Items like dorayaki [pancake-like patties made from castella wrapped around a filling of sweet azuki bean paste] and daifuku [small round mochi stuffed with a sweet filling] are typical—easy to grab and eat casually by hand."

Tokyo's wagashi confections are known as "Edo-gashi." They flourished in Edo (present-day Tokyo) from the mid-Edo period onward (late 17th century to late 18th century), during the era when commoner culture truly blossomed amid the approximately 260-year Edo period that began in 1603. Everyday treats for working people and children, as well as delights savored at seasonal festivals, these wagashi confections have been faithfully passed down to the present. They make the perfect quick snack during sightseeing or as a thoughtful souvenir, revealing a more-approachable, everyday side of wagashi confections distinct from the refined experience of enjoying delicate ones with matcha.

Here, we introduce four wagashi confections that have long been cherished in Tokyo and that capture the true essence of the city's character.

Daifukumochi (daifuku):

A wagashi confection made by wrapping anko in mochi, said to have been born in Edo during the Edo period; since the 1980s, daifuku has developed into many modern variations, including ichigo daifuku (strawberries placed inside the anko) and mochi ice cream treats, which have proliferated widely overseas.

Eitaro Sohonpo's Umeboshi-ame: A timeless confection handed down from Edo-period techniques

Ame hard candy:

Traditional Japanese ame hard candy has been enjoyed since ancient times, but it truly spread among the common people from the mid-Edo period onward. Tokyo is home to several longstanding shops and companies—including Eitaro Sohonpo—that began selling ame during that era and that continue the tradition today. Alongside the classic flavors faithfully passed down, recent years have brought playful, kawaii-inspired items such as colorful and adorable candies or lipstick-shaped ame (soft type) that capture today's sense of cuteness.

Eitaro Sohonpo's amanatto: "Amananatto" (sweetened beans)

Amanatto:

A wagashi confection made by simmering azuki beans, chestnuts, sweet potatoes, and similar ingredients in sugar syrup, then coating them with granulated sugar; prized as an everyday snack among common people because of its excellent shelf life.

Eitaro Sohonpo's kintsuba: A wagashi confection said to have been grilled on street stalls toward the end of the Edo period

Kintsuba:

Kintsuba consists of anko wrapped in a thin wheat-flour skin and then baked to golden perfection. The name derives from "kin" (gold) and "tsuba" (the handguard of a samurai sword, due to its distinctive shape). Originally known as "gintsuba" (silver tsuba) in Kyoto, this confection evolved in both recipe and name as it made its way to Edo. In earlier times, it was a popular offering sold from street stalls throughout the bustling city of Edo.

"From the mid-Edo period onward, as the city of Edo flourished and street stalls offering soba, tempura, and other fast foods of the era lined the bustling streets, kintsuba stalls stood right among them," says Akizuki. "These casually enjoyable Edo-gashi confections filled small hungers on the go and surely served as a vital source of energy and spirit for those hard at work." One can readily see that Edo-gashi confections played a key role in sustaining the lively energy of the markets where merchants constantly came and went.

Eitaro Sohonpo, situated in Tokyo's historic Nihonbashi district, carries on the legacy of Edo-gashi confections by faithfully preserving time-honored techniques and traditions. The four wagashi confections featured here are all available for purchase at the store.

Creative wagashi confections that blend kawaii charm from across the ages

Tokyo remains, as it always has been, a vibrant metropolis where countless people cross paths, constantly refreshing and evolving its signature sense of kawaii with each passing era. In recent years, wagashi confections have embraced fresh inspirations—adorable packaging, delicate infusions of Western confectionery essences, and other innovative touches—giving rise to creations that perfectly capture the playful, modern spirit of today's Tokyo.

Speaking to this spirit of ingenuity, Akizuki describes it as "the creative essence handed down through generations of artisans."

Both wagashi confections that faithfully carry on traditional styles and those that blend in contemporary culture are infused with creative messages crafted to spark excitement and heart-fluttering delight in everyone who passes through Tokyo's vibrant streets. We warmly invite you to visit Tokyo, savor both worlds firsthand, and carry those heartfelt messages home with you.