Szechwan Cuisine the Japanese Way, in Tokyo

Tokyo, a city of dazzling contrasts, is a dream destination for travelers, but it’s arguably one of the culinary capitals of the world, that draws global gourmands like a magnetic force. The sheer diversity, the relentless pursuit of quality, and the fascinating intersection of tradition and innovation define a food scene unlike any other. 

It doesn't take much time for one to realize that this place offers cuisines from all four corners of the world. Among them, Chinese cuisine is represented by restaurants from all four major culinary regions—Beijing, Shanghai, Canton, and Szechwan. Furthermore, there are many dishes like ramen, which originated in China but have since undergone a unique evolution to become a part of Japanese cuisine.

In Tokyo, dining is not merely sustenance; it is an experience of meticulous craftsmanship, deeply rooted culture, and “infinite possibility and diversity,” as described by a third-generation chef with roots in China who also serves as a Tokyo Tourism Ambassador, Chen Kentaro of Szechwan Restaurant. We asked him to explain further. 

The Backdrop of Tokyo’s Food Landscape

The culinary scene in Tokyo is uniquely defined by its incredible diversity, quality, and spirit of innovation. It boasts more stars by that world-famous dining guide than any other city globally, a testament to its commitment to excellence across a vast spectrum of cuisines. What makes Tokyo stand out is its ability to honor and preserve traditional Japanese cuisine (Washoku) while simultaneously embracing, adapting, and perfecting foreign culinary styles, often resulting in entirely new genres like Japanese-French or high-end fusion that uses seasonal Japanese ingredients. The city's food culture is also deeply influenced by its history as a major port and cultural center, allowing it to incorporate regional delicacies from all over Japan and to continuously evolve with new global trends, catering meticulously to every palate from street food to exquisite kaiseki. 

The integration of Chinese food, known in Japan as Chūka Ryōri, into the Japanese culinary landscape is a profound example of this adaptation and is now an integral part of the country’s daily diet. Beginning in earnest in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Chinese dishes were expertly modified to suit the subtle, less oily, and less intensely spiced Japanese palate, as well as to utilize readily available local ingredients. 

In Japan, the term chūka ryōri (中華料理)typically brings to mind casual, Japanese-style adaptations of Chinese dishes, while chūgoku ryōri (中国料理) tends to suggest something more authentic or specialized. The distinction isn’t strict and can vary depending on the speaker and the context. That said, in more formal or professional settings, chūgoku ryōri is generally the preferred term.

This localization gave rise to popular, distinctly Japanese versions of classics, like Ramen (derived from Chinese noodle soup), Gyoza (pan-fried rather than boiled, and eaten as a side dish), and Mapo Tofu (often made milder with miso and less fiery Szechwan pepper). These Chūka Ryōri dishes are now staples found everywhere, from humble, family-run neighborhood joints (machi chūka) to convenience stores and high-end specialty restaurants, solidifying Chinese cuisine’s permanent and essential place in modern Japanese food culture. And Tokyo’s dynamic environment—where the finest global ingredients are readily available—pushes chefs in all genres, including Chinese and Western cuisine, to offer new ideas and experiences.

Spices and seasonings are essential to Szechwan cuisine. They used to be sourced locally, but now come from across the globe.

Multicultural Culinary Identity

To understand the depth of Tokyo’s culinary scene, one must look beyond its native washoku and explore the “Japanized” international cuisines that have evolved into their own distinct genres. ‘Szechwan Restaurant by Chen Kentaro’ provides a compelling example of this phenomenon. The restaurant is a standard-bearer for Tokyo-style Szechwan cuisine, a unique tradition founded by his grandfather, Chen Kenmin, who is revered as the “Father of Szechwan Cuisine in Japan.”

The foundation of Szechwan Restaurant’s cooking was born out of ingenuity in post-war Japan. As Chen explains, “When my grandfather came to Japan in 1952 and opened his first restaurant in 1958, he couldn’t use Chinese ingredients or seasonings, so he created Szechwan cuisine using what was available in Japan. In essence, while its roots are in China’s Szechwan Province, it is Szechwan cuisine that grew up in Tokyo.”

That legacy is now carried forward by Chen Kentaro, who grew up immersed in the kitchen, observing his grandfather Chen Kenmin, and his father Chen Kenichi, famous for being the longest-running cast member of a popular TV show “Iron Chef*.” Despite this formidable lineage, the third-generation Chen emphasizes that he was “never forced to become a chef.” In fact, he recalls “I was told to do what I liked, and I made the decision myself when I was 20. I’ve loved eating and dining with people since I was little, and it made me happy to see people smile when they ate the food I made.” So the family tradition lives on, not through a sense of duty, but a sense of joy.

*“Iron Chef” was a popular Japanese television cooking show that became internationally famous, airing from 1993 to 1999. 

The pressures of being a third-generation successor are an acknowledged reality, as he admits, “There were moments where I felt it and moments where I didn’t.” However, his ultimate motivation remains deeply personal and connected to the cuisine itself: “The biggest feeling at the core is my love for Szechwan Restaurant’s cuisine.”

As a Japanese citizen with one-fourth Chinese ancestry, running Chinese restaurants in both Tokyo and Singapore, one might expect Chen would be strongly conscious of his own cultural identity and the roots of Szechwan Restaurant. But, according to Chen himself, that only happened after going to Singapore to open his flagship restaurant aptly named ‘Szechwan Restaurant by Chen Kentaro.’ He adds, “I began to consider what sentiments my grandfather had when he nurtured the cuisine, and how to convey that value. I felt that in order for my colleagues to create my cuisine and for it to be conveyed to customers, I needed to be able to clearly explain my own identity.” This experience cemented his understanding that the food he was creating was a Tokyo-style Chinese cuisine—a delicate fusion unique to its birthplace.

What Tokyo Brings to the Table

In the hands of a master like Chen, even the most robust dishes of Szechwan cuisine are infused with Tokyo’s signature style. Tokyo’s food culture has, according to Chen, “infinite potential and diversity. The culture, including Japan’s four seasons, ingredients, and seasonal festivals, is meticulous and delicate. Even as trends change rapidly, there is a high quality rooted in the Japanese identity. You can experience new ideas and flavors in various genres, not just Japanese food, but also Chinese and Western cuisine.”

Take, for instance, Chen’s signature dish, Mapo Tofu. While Chinese cooking is typically dynamic, using high-heat burners that can reach tens of thousands of kilocalories, the preparation of Mapo Tofu demands incredible precision. The final stages require a delicate touch to avoid burning the ingredients at the bottom of the wok, using a technique where the wok is “kept floating in the air away from the heat” to enhance aroma and umami, the fifth basic taste discovered in Japan. This requires expert control of the flame, because as Chen puts it, “controlling the fire and the temperature of the oil changes the texture, aroma, and depth” of the dish.

This subtle, almost imperceptible control is part of the deep well of skill that Tokyo’s chefs possess. The city’s access to the freshest ingredients, informed by the Japanese reverence for seasonality, allows this delicate technique to truly shine. “The base is the traditional, fundamental techniques of Chinese cuisine,” says Chen, but in Tokyo, these are “layered with influences from Japanese cuisine, Western cuisine, and various other techniques and cultures.”

Not to dwell, but to put their signature dish in perspective, we should also point out that the Mapo Tofu of Szechwan Province was adapted by Chen’s grandfather to the Japanese palate, famously becoming a dish eaten with rice—a cultural adaptation that made it wildly popular in Japan in the 1970s. Today, ‘Szechwan Restaurant by Chen Kentaro’ offers a further refined version of the dish, using high-quality seasonings like tōbanjan (chili bean paste) handmade at the restaurant, as well as other locally sourced ingredients.

Lifts the wok off the flame to delicately control the heat

Some of Chen’s Signature dishes: Shrimp in Chili Sauce, and Spicy Sesame Tantanmen

Mapo Tofu, developed by the first generation Chef Chen is now a typical rice dish in Japan.

Adding Sustainability to Szechwan

More than at other restaurants, the practice of over-ordering at Chinese restaurants is rather prevalent, largely a product of the cuisine's inherent design for family-style, communal dining. Unlike Western meals where an individual orders one main course, Chinese meals are built around sharing a variety of dishes placed in the center of the table. To properly honor guests and ensure every diner finds something to their liking, the host feels compelled to order more distinct items—a structure that encourages a focus on variety and abundance over conservative portion control. 

This cultural imperative to demonstrate provision and avoid the embarrassment of guests leaving hungry often overrides concerns about efficiency or food waste. The resulting leftovers, coupled with the fact that it is not common practice to ‘doggy bag’ and take home leftovers in Japan, simultaneously contribute to the problem of food loss, an issue that modern restaurateurs, like Chen, are increasingly mindful of and trying to address through more conscious ordering practices. “My suggestion to guests is that if they need more, they can always order more later,” says Chen.

As for what is being done on the restaurant side to reduce food loss, at one of his 11 locations, a policy was implemented to remove the waste bin from the cutting board area, which encouraged their staff to become conscious of creatively using what were previously considered scraps, reducing edible waste significantly. Of course, not everything winds up on a guest’s plate but may alternatively find its way into their famously delicious makanai (staff meals) instead. 

This commitment extends to building a conscious connection with the source of the ingredients. Chen emphasizes the importance of the team meeting the producers, a practice that allows staff to understand the background of the ingredients. Witnessing the dedication that goes into farming and harvesting shifts the mindset of the staff, changing how they handle the ingredients. “Avoiding waste is something anyone can do, but to have everyone do it spontaneously and wholeheartedly, I believe it’s crucial to go and meet the producers and see with our own eyes what we’re receiving,” says Chen. This, in turn, plays a role in elevating the status of Japanese ingredient producers through recognition of their passion and ingenuity—a win-win from the farm to the table.

The chef shared his insights from various perspectives

Tips on Embracing the Tokyo Experience

Tokyo’s draw as a gourmet destination lies in its ability to offer a spectrum of experiences—from the rooted authenticity of washoku to the fascinating, high-quality adaptations of global cuisines. Chen recognizes that for international visitors, Tokyo offers unparalleled access: “Today, you can acquire anything from around the world... even spices that were once difficult to get.” This open, rapidly evolving environment contributes to a culinary scene that is deeper and forever evolving at an incredible pace.

The dining experience in Tokyo is a delicate negotiation between the chef’s mastery and the guest’s awareness. While the city’s restaurants offer incredible flexibility, a shared respect for the dining environment is key. Chen encourages international diners to “respect the house rules” of each restaurant. 

Ultimately, a meal in Tokyo, whether at a three-starred establishment or a humble local haunt, is an encounter with, as Chen puts it, “people who are doing very delicate work.” For the gourmet traveler, Tokyo offers more than just exceptional food; it provides a chance to savor the atmosphere, the conversation, and the underlying passion that drives its culinary artists. “Enjoy the atmosphere as a whole, not just the taste,” encourages Chen, for it is in this holistic experience that Tokyo’s status as a world gourmet capital is truly felt.