Taste Shitamachi, Taste Edo—Even Better When You Know

Tokyo is a city where diverse cuisines from all over the world gather and evolve.
It is also the birthplace of various ingredients, including traditional Edo vegetables.

The seasonal blessings born from Tokyo’s unique natural environment,
the passion, stories, and smiles of the producers,
and the chefs who weave Tokyo’s food culture with traditional techniques and innovative ideas.

A one-of-a-kind Gastronomic experience in Tokyo
will surely give you new insights into your daily life.

Tokyo Gastronomy Tourism
Enjoy the food nurtured by the climate, environment, customs, traditions, and history of the land, and experience the local culinary culture at the essence of this trip.
The time spent learning, understanding, and savoring will color your experience.

Taste Shitamachi, Taste Edo—Even Better When You Know

Tokyo is a city where you can find restaurants serving cuisine from around the world. Yet, if you wander through the old shitamachi^※1 neighborhoods, you will encounter various spots where you can experience the food culture passed down from the Edo period^※2.
Tsukiji Outer Market, which inherited the bustle and market culture of Nihonbashi Uogashi^※3, the long-established dojo nabe (loach hotpot) restaurant where many peddlers stopped by morning and evening, the eatery that became the origin of izakaya, Edo Kiriko glassware for sake born in the Nihonbashi area...
We went on a shitamachi day trip in search of Edo's cuisine.

※1 Downtown area where many merchants, craftsmen, and other townspeople have lived since the Edo period.

※2 The Edo period that lasted for about 260 years from 1603, and the city of Edo (Tokyo) that served as Japan's capital during that era.

※3 A fish market located in Nihonbashi from the Edo period until the late Taisho era.

Participant （Left photo）

Yusuke Nomura
Shojin Cuisine Restaurant "Daigo" 4th Generation Owner / Tokyo Tourism Ambassador
Born in 1981. He started working in his family business, Daigo, when he was in college, and became the head chef of Daigo when he was 32 years old. Since 2007, the restaurant has been listed in the "Michelin Guide Tokyo" for 19 consecutive years. In the 2025 edition, the restaurant was named a "Michelin Green Star" for its active commitment to sustainable gastronomy. The restaurant is also working to raise barrier-free awareness, reduce methane gas emissions through food, and combat food loss.
https://www.atago-daigo.jp/

Facilitator （Right photo）

Hanako Usui
Japanese Chef / Edo Cuisine Researcher
After working as an exhibition designer for museums all over Japan, she trained at a Japanese restaurant for 9 years. She later became independent and, as a Japanese cuisine chef, has been involved in preserving Japanese food culture, teaching cooking classes, and researching fish-eating culture, specializing particularly in Edo cuisine. Her book "Himono Ryori-cho" (The Dried Fish Cookbook) won the Grand Prix in the Fish & Seafood category at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards. She organizes cooking classes and tours of the Tsukiji Outer Market, sharing the lifestyle connected to Edo with people of all ages.
https://www.instagram.com/hana_usui/?hl=ja

Experience the Edo market culture that lives on in Tsukiji

The first stop on this day was Tsukiji. Wandering through the streets where shoppers and tourists came and went and delicious smells wafted from everywhere, we first went to Namiyoke Shrine, home to the guardian deity of Tsukiji.

Within the precincts stands the Hono Uogashi Monument (fish market monument that has been offered to the shrine), commemorating how the Nihonbashi Fish Market—operating since the Edo period—was destroyed in the Great Kanto Earthquake^※4  and relocated to Tsukiji. There are also mounds dedicated to the spirits of creatures that have been handled by people who have worked in Tsukiji, such as mounds of live fish, kelp, eggs, prawns, and monkfish. "The mounds beautifully embody Japan's ancient philosophy of gratitude for receiving and consuming the lives of living creatures. Tsukiji remains a place where human interaction is still very vibrant, deeply preserving the market culture cultivated at Nihonbashi Uogashi," said Ms. Usui. 

※4 On September 1, 1923, a major earthquake of magnitude 7.9 hit the Kanto region

Walking from Namiyoke Shrine, we went to Hiei, a tuna store on the first floor of Tsukiji Uogashi. The two were welcomed by Mr. Kota Kusumoto, the fourth generation of the store. Hiei is an intermediary tuna wholesaler^※5 celebrating its 100th anniversary in 2027. Every morning, they select and purchase^※6 fresh tuna at the Toyosu Market auction, then cut and portion it for sale. On this day, tuna from places like Hiroo and Funka Bay in Hokkaido, Shiogama in Miyagi, and Tsushima in Nagasaki were lined up.

※5 A business that purchases goods from wholesalers within a wholesale market, repackages them in smaller quantities, and sells them to buyers such as retailers and restaurants.

※6 Accurately determining whether it is genuine and how much it is worth

While tuna is now an indispensable fish for sushi and sashimi, surprisingly, it wasn't commonly eaten in the past. Mr. Kusumoto chuckled, "Tuna has a high body temperature and is rich in blood, so in the days before ice or refrigeration, it spoiled quickly and was rather unpopular. Not only people, but even cats avoided eating it. They would walk right over the tuna and leave, which is why it came to be called 'nekomatagi'—literally, 'cat-straddler.'" 

Tuna first saw the light of day in the late Edo period. Sushi chef Hanaya Yohei devised nigiri sushi at a street stall for impatient Edo locals, using "zuke"—tuna marinated in soy sauce—which gradually caught on with people. "Not only did the salt in soy sauce enhance its shelf life, but it also paired exceptionally well with dark soy sauce. Around that time, the meat began to be marinated, while the tendons were simmered with green onions to create negima hotpot," said Mr. Kusumoto. 

With the subsequent development of freezing technology, various types of tuna became available and are now immensely popular. According to Mr. Kusumoto, tuna caught in deep-sea fishing is flash-frozen in a -60°C freezer aboard the fishing vessel and transported at a constant temperature via transfer vessels. Mr. Nomura stated, "Japan's cold chain—a logistics system with meticulous temperature control—is among the world's best. It's precisely because of this system that we can enjoy tuna on such a scale. In that sense, I believe tuna represents Japan's sashimi and sushi. It's a special fish, most delicious when eaten raw, captivating people with its vivid red flesh."  

At Tekka-ya in the 3rd-floor food court, you can enjoy tekka-don rice bowls made with Hiei tuna. Hungry, both ordered the jo-akami tekka-don (premium lean tuna rice bowl). Both Ms. Usui and Mr. Nomura were delighted to see a bowl of rice topped with a generous portion of glossy, thick tuna. Exclamations of "So good!" were flying around repeatedly. 

The next stop was the kelp merchant Suita Shoten. According to the fifth-generation president, Katsuyoshi Suita, kelp dashi (broth), long cherished in the Kansai region, was supplanted in Tokyo after the Edo period by katsuo dashi (bonito broth) made from bonito flakes and dark soy sauce, with kelp being used primarily for consumption. However, after the Great Kanto Earthquake, as key figures from Kansai Zaibatsu^※7 were gathered in Tokyo to rebuild the city, demand for Kansai-style cuisine also emerged in Tokyo. For this reason, Suita Shoten, founded in Osaka, also expanded into Tokyo when the Tsukiji Market opened.

※7 Professional businessmen who once managed vast conglomerates on behalf of their clans

Kelp is rich in glutamic acid, which enhances the flavor of other ingredients and makes them taste delicious. However, its taste varies greatly depending on the type, part, and degree of aging. As such, Suita Shoten finds the recommended kelp for customers by identifying the dishes customers wish to make, the flavors they aim for, and the ingredients they plan to use. "Even with the same dish, regional variations exist, so we sometimes ask customers where they come from. For specialty stores like ours, product knowledge accumulates through interactions with customers. Tsukiji Outer Market remains a gathering place for specialty stores, and I believe its appeal lies in the ability to customize purchases through interactions with knowledgeable staff," said President Suita.  

At Suita Shoten, they also offer "kelp tasting" for customers purchasing kelp, allowing them to sample different kelp dashi. On this day, when I tasted the prepared Hakodate ma-kombu kelp and Hidaka kelp side by side, completely different flavors spread across my palate. Ms. Usui, a researcher of Edo cuisine, often uses Hidaka kelp. She explained, "Tokyo has a culture of eating kelp that evolved from Tsukudani in Tsukuda Island, so I often use Hidaka because it is soft and easy to eat. The broth color becomes cloudy, but when wrapping herring or salmon in kelp rolls, Hidaka's bold flavor pairs perfectly. Isn't it so well-designed?"  

Step through the noren curtain and time-travel to the Edo-period restaurant, Komakata Dozeu Honten 

The restaurant we visited for lunch was Komakata Dozeu Honten in Komagata, Taito City, Tokyo. Established in 1801, the historic building conveys the atmosphere of an Edo-period merchant house, as if time had stopped just there. The first floor features a communal tatami room with a large shinto altar^※8 at the back. A cypress board called a kana-ita is laid on the floor, surrounded by cushions.

※8 An altar in homes and workplaces where people pray for daily peace, family health, and business prosperity, a tradition rooted in Japanese life since ancient times.

We asked Mr. Takashi Watanabe, the seventh generation owner, about the history of the restaurant. "During the Edo period, the street in front of our restaurant was said to be bustling with people heading to the markets at Nihonbashi and Akihabara. As an ichizen-meshiya^※9, our restaurant served them loach soup as a one-bowl meal. Back then, loach was a valuable source of protein and was believed to be invigorating, which made our business thrive."  On the way home from the market, on days when business went well, some people might have enjoyed a feast of loach hotpot (dozeu-nabe) served with a carafe of sake. As a side note, the reason the four-character spellings of "どじやう" and "どぢやう" (both pronounced dojiyau) were changed to "どぜう" (dozeu) is because four characters were considered a bad omen, as the kanji character for "four" in Japanese can be pronounced as "shi," which also means death. During the third-generation owner's era, the restaurant introduced its signature dishes: the loach hotpot and whale hotpot. Remarkably, the menu has remained virtually unchanged since then, and many of the seasonings used in the cooking are still the same brands used since the restaurant's founding. For instance, the soy sauce from Higeta Shoyu, the Oedo Sweet Miso from Chikuma Miso, the Seven-Color Chili Peppers from Yagenbori, and the rice sourced from the rice wholesaler Kameta Shoten—the fact that these long-established businesses, founded during the Edo period, have maintained transactions across generations conveys a profound sense of history.

※9 A simple canteen serving rice, side dishes, and soup in bowls and rice bowls

Ms. Usui said she has been coming here often since she was a child. "When the Tori no Ichi^※10 fair begins, eating loach hotpot at Komakata Dozeu and visiting Asakusa's Otori Shrine has always been our family tradition, both then and now. Though I'm originally from Nezu, when I was a child, we'd buy live loaches from the river fish shop in the shopping district, and my mother would make loach soup. Even now that loaches have become a rare ingredient, I'm grateful that Komakata Dozeu remains unchanged."  

The long-awaited loach hotpot has arrived. In a thin iron pot, loaches are packed tightly together in a bubbling warishita broth. "Edo locals are hurry-up types, so the pot is shallow to cook quickly. Pile on as much green onion as you like, and once it reaches your preferred firmness, sprinkle with sansho pepper or shichimi togarashi to taste. Add more broth before it burns," said Mr. Watanabe.  

※10 Every November, festivals are held at bird-related shrines—such as Asakusa’s Tori no Tera and other Otori Shrines (鷲 or 大鳥), mainly in the Kanto area—to pray for good fortune and prosperous business.

After taking a bite, Mr. Nomura smiled broadly and said, "Ah, it really is so delightful." The rich flavor of the loach, crumbling tenderly in the mouth, combined with the sweet-savory warishita broth and the sharpness of green onions, creates a perfect harmony that keeps you reaching for more. Next came the thick, creamy loach miso soup. The interplay of the loach and burdock root's satisfying crunch makes it impossible to put down the chopsticks.
"Loaches are notoriously tough fish with hard bones that are difficult to prepare, but here, even the bones are tender. You can really feel the expertise accumulated in this restaurant for cooking loaches deliciously. Between the building's atmosphere and the unique loach hotpot you can't find anywhere else, Komakata Dozeu truly is one of a kind," Mr. Nomura remarked with deep admiration.  

In addition to long-time regulars, the restaurant was bustling as always with visitors trying the loach hotpot for the first time, as well as foreign customers. Mr. Watanabe shared, "I believe part of our value lies in making guests feel, 'This must be what an Edo-period restaurant was like' the moment they step through our noren curtain. It's my job to make more people want to try our delicious loach hotpot and come back again."  

Admire masterfully crafted pieces at Edo Kiriko Glass Shop Hanashyo Nihonbashi Branch

Our next stop was Hanashyo Nihonbashi Branch, a shop specializing in Edo Kiriko, which is a traditional craft of Tokyo. The glasses displayed inside the store were richly colored and visually striking, featuring shades like lapis lazuli blue, red, pink and purple gradients, and yellow and green gradients. The intricate patterns shimmering in the light streaming through the window drew an involuntary gasp of admiration.

According to the shop director Tamae Kira, Edo Kiriko originated when Kagaya Kyubei, a bidoro (Glassware) craftsman in Odenmacho during the late Edo period, experimented with carving patterns onto glass surfaces using emery. It then evolved as craftsmen incorporated Western glass techniques while developing their own unique methods. “It's interesting how, even among cut glass, Satsuma Kiriko^※11 was established as a local industry under the patronage of the Shimazu family who ruled the Satsuma Domain, while Edo Kiriko emerged from the inventive spirit of a single craftsman” said Ms. Kira. This is a quintessential Edo-period anecdote, where many craftsmen gathered and gave birth to new creations one after another through their free-spirited ideas. Edo Kiriko gained attention as a luxurious piece of glassware due to its beauty, and records show that a bottle of Edo Kiriko was presented to Commodore Perry.

※11 The name of cut glass produced in the Satsuma Domain (Kagoshima) during the late Edo period.

On this day, we were given a special opportunity to experience Edo Kiriko. When cutting glass by running a grinder along a straight line drawn on a guinomi^※12, even slight hand tremors could cause the cut line to curve or become double-layered. Yet, Ms. Usui and Mr. Nomura worked silently, completely absorbed in their task. With ease, they steadily carved the lines.
"This is fun! It feels a bit like handling a kitchen knife, so I bet chefs would really enjoy this process. It makes me want to try making my own sake cup from scratch," said Ms. Usui, clearly delighted with the experience.   Mr. Nomura also remarked, "This really is something you could do for hours," enjoying the experience as long as time allowed.
*Currently, they are only available for media coverage and do not offer private experiences.

※12 A type of cup used for drinking sake, slightly larger and deeper than the standard "ochoko" cup.

Mr. Nomura shared his thoughts: "It's very Japanese how auspicious patterns are designed based on plants and natural elements. This connects to the concept of the eight million deities, and I think it's wonderful that the motifs are truly infinite." 

Experience the Edo spirit at Toshimaya Sake Shop, the origin of izakaya

"My mission is to get as many people as possible to drink sake in Tokyo, and to drink it myself," chuckled Ms. Usui, who is a sake enthusiast. The last place she guided us to was Toshimaya Sake Shop in Kanda Nishikicho. 

Opened in 2020 as a standing-bar izakaya within the KANDA SQUARE office building, this establishment is actually operated by Toshimaya Honten—Tokyo's oldest sake shop, founded in 1596 along the Kanda Kamakura riverside. The townspeople of Edo had a deep love for warmed sake, and with the thriving restaurant industry, it is said that during the Edo period, the amount of sake transported annually from the Kansai region—a major sake-producing area—to Edo reached 1.8 million 72-liter sake barrels. Toshimaya gained popularity as a sake shop and drinking establishment, and is considered the origin of izakaya. During the Meiji period^※13, the company also began brewing sake, and its flagship brand, Kinkon (Golden Wedding Anniversary in English), is offered as omiki^※14  at shrines such as Kanda Shrine.

※13 The Meiji period that lasted from the late 19th century to the early 20th century

※14 Sacred sake offered at shrines and shinto altars

The original izakaya closed after the Great Kanto Earthquake, but the wish of the company's sixteenth-generation owner, Toshiyuki Yoshimura, to "one day revive the izakaya business from our founding days" has been fulfilled. After nearly a century, Toshimaya Sake Shop has reopened in Kanda, the place where it all began. Based on the concept of "Edo-Tokyo Modern," the shop offers both sake and snacks ranging from traditional favorites cherished since the Edo period to contemporary selections. It also features subscription services such as a Junmai Sake Pass and a Snack Pass. "Compared to the past, people can now enjoy a wider variety of alcoholic beverages, so sake's market share has been declining recently. With the trend of people drifting away from sake becoming serious in recent years, I'd be delighted if this place could become somewhere where young people and international visitors can casually enjoy sake," said Mr. Yoshimura. 

Ms. Usui said, "The beauty of Japanese sake lies in how it can be enjoyed at various temperatures—hot, warm, room temperature, or chilled—depending on the season and the sake itself, each offering its own delicious qualities. I hope people will experience this enjoyment at restaurants too, and I want more people to know that Tokyo has delicious sake." 

Lined up on the table were three bottles of sake recommended by Toshimaya and three snacks paired with each. The first cup was AYA a lightly cloudy nigorizake^※15 that is also light to drink, paired with traditional tofu dengaku. The miso, based on Chikuma Miso's Oedo Sweet Miso—mentioned earlier in relation to Komakata Dozeu—and blended with Toshimaya sake and mirin, pairs perfectly with tofu of just the right firmness. The second cup was Juemon, named after the founder of Toshimaya, paired with bluefin tuna sashimi. The third cup was Kinkon Edo Sake Oji, brewed with Tokyo-grown rice, Edo yeast, and Tokyo well water, paired with Toshimaya butter. Toshimaya Butter is a creation featuring butter blended with sake lees and dried fruit. It pairs exceptionally well with Kinkon Edo Sake Oji, a white wine-like sake where acidity and sweetness spread in perfect balance.
The two were completely captivated by the pairings that transcended time, enjoyed in an Edo-period-style standing-bar setting. We toasted with Edo Kiriko sake cups made at Hanashyo, and enjoyed spirited conversation about Japanese sake, Japanese cuisine, and Edo.

※15 Sake made by coarsely straining the moromi (fermented mash of rice) through a coarse cloth, leaving behind rice grains and koji sediment, resulting in a white, cloudy sake.

Reflecting on his day, Mr. Nomura shared his thoughts: "Visiting various places made me realize the unique value of Tokyo. Today's travelers increasingly find value in experiences and pleasures that can only be savored by actually being there. Even ingredients that aren't inherently rare often gain significant value when paired with the history and culture stretching back to the Edo period. As Tokyo's 

Tourism Ambassador, I feel it's my mission to convey this unique value of Tokyo and the reasons to come and enjoy it here to as many people as possible."    

Inside the shop, a picture from the Edo Meisho Zue, a guidebook-like publication from the Edo period, was displayed. The scene depicted showed crowds flocking to the former Toshimaya Sake Shop to buy Toshimaya Shirozake, a sake so wildly popular it inspired the verse: "If it's a mountain, it must be Fuji; if it's sake, it must be Toshimaya."
Hundreds of years ago, this very scene unfolded just a few minutes' walk from here. The two had concluded their shitamachi day trip, savoring Tokyo's history stretching back to the Edo period with a superb drink and snacks.

（This article presents the implementation report of the project conducted by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government during the 2025 fiscal year, aimed at promoting the appeal of gastronomic tourism in Tokyo）

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