Wagyu in Tokyo: Comparing the Best

In recent years, "Wagyu beef" has become a term recognized worldwide. Wagyu beef features tender lean meat and high-quality fat marbling known as "sashi " that forms a mesh-like pattern. This superior fat has a low melting point, so it melts the moment it lands on your palate, washing a smooth texture over your taste buds with distinct sweetness and umami (savoriness). The more you chew, the more the juices flow, astonishing you with the profound depth of Wagyu beef's multi-layered umami. Many travelers make this impactful gourmet experience their reason for visiting Tokyo.
Meat expert Mr. Katsuomi KOIKE states that there is a "very compelling reason to taste Wagyu beef in Tokyo." Come taste Wagyu beef yourself, experience that reason firsthand, and discover the profound depth of Wagyu beef.

What is "Wagyu beef" and why does it captivate gourmets around the world?

"Wagyu beef" is a term referring to cattle breeds, specifically the four breeds for meat production that have undergone selective breeding for superior quality based on long-established native Japanese cattle. Unlike regular domestic beef in Japan, which is indicated by region of production, only four breeds—Japanese Black (known as "Kuroge Wagyu" in Japan), Japanese Brown, Japanese Polled, and Japanese Shorthorn—qualify for the "Wagyu beef" designation.
Ninety percent of Wagyu beef cattle raised in Japan are Japanese Black, a breed considered highly superior for consumption due to its meat quality, degree of sashi, aroma, and other characteristics. Famous brands such as Matsusaka Beef, Kobe Beef, Omi Beef, and Yonezawa Beef also belong to this breed.

Meat expert Katsuomi KOIKE describes the appeal of Wagyu beef as follows: "Wagyu beef contains sashi, so when you set it on your tongue, the fat melts and the sweetness unfolds, allowing you to enjoy a smooth texture. In addition, Wagyu beef offers tender meat quality throughout the entire range of cuts, allowing diners to thoroughly enjoy every part, including the offal. The meat characteristics differ greatly by part, and comparing the differences in aroma, texture, and umami proves enjoyable. Some parts stand out for their rarity, so even people who have eaten Wagyu beef before can encounter a new surprising appeal. An acquaintance of mine became so captivated by these experiences that he visits Japan multiple times a year with Wagyu beef as his reason for coming. In recent years, I have also received requests to curate experiences for celebrities from overseas, and I truly feel that Wagyu beef has become a food of aspiration."

Yakiniku, shabu-shabu, and sukiyaki: Meat dishes that reveal the charm of Wagyu beef

Meat expert Katsuomi KOIKE

Koike was born into a fishmonger's family and awakened to the world of meat at age 18 when he first ate yakiniku using his own part-time job earnings. His specialized meat blog has since gained recognition for its reliable knowledge and keen eye for quality, and he now actively shares information via social media and other platforms while thriving as an advisor in the industry.

While exploring the appeal of meat, Koike states: "Japanese-style cooking and eating practices such as thinly slicing the meat and consuming offal, rooted in Japan's processing, distribution, and culinary techniques, bring out the delicate flavors of Wagyu beef."
Here are three Japanese meat dishes that allow you to experience the appeal of Wagyu beef in traditional Japanese cuisine (washoku ).

Yakiniku
Here, various cuts grace a tabletop grill or hot plate such as: "karubi " (tender short rib cut), where sashi  forms easily; "rosu " (a cut from the back to the loin), offering an excellent balance of fat and lean meat; and "horumon," consisting of offal such as stomach and intestines. With roots in Korea, yakiniku was disseminated throughout Japan after World War II, giving birth to a uniquely Japanese style where diners grill the meat to their preferred doneness and dip it in tare sauce before eating.

Shabu-shabu
This Japanese hot pot dish involves briefly passing thinly sliced meat through broth in a pot, lifting it out at the preferred doneness, and dipping it into sauce before eating. When thinly sliced Wagyu beef receives quick heat, the fat melts, producing a sensation where it simply vanishes on the tongue.

Sukiyaki
This hot pot dish simmers beef, green onions, shiitake mushrooms, and other ingredients in a broth made with traditional Japanese seasonings such as soy sauce and mirin. A characteristic way to eat it involves dipping the savory-sweet beef in whisked raw egg, creating a rich, creamy glaze that elevates the dish to higher levels of decadence. For more details, refer to our article on sukiyaki.

The convergence point for branded beef: Reasons to eat Wagyu beef in Tokyo

Wagyu beef: Realizing deliciousness through farmers' meticulous care in feed and cattle-raising methods for each individual head

You have likely heard of Wagyu beef brand names such as Matsusaka Beef, Kobe Beef, Omi Beef, and Yonezawa Beef. These are called "branded beef," with more than 300 types existing across Japan. Each type undergoes raising under strict regulations, requiring about three years from breeding to shipment. Mass production proves difficult for all types, and with rising global reputation and demand for Wagyu beef, their scarcity increases year by year.

Koike states that Tokyo is a gathering place for even these scarce, branded Wagyu beef varieties.

"Tokyo possesses one of Japan's largest markets, frequented by livestock farmers, processors, and distributors, where branded beef and high-quality beef from across the country converge. Suppliers and discerning experts responsible for procurement at famous restaurants gather here, making it a central location for assessing the quality and value of branded beef while also functioning as the hub for domestic Wagyu beef distribution in Japan."

Tokyo-produced branded beef also merits attention. In the nature-rich area of Akigawa in Akiruno City, located west of Tokyo, farmers raise Akigawa Beef. This beef boasts meat quality equivalent to the highest rank among Japanese Black cattle and is seen as a very elusive and rare type of Wagyu beef, being from Tokyo—thus very scarce. It also attracts attention from the perspective of local production for local consumption.

Comparing different meat dishes and cuts, immersing yourself in the umami of Wagyu beef

Koike also states: "Tokyo boasts many restaurants that have been awarded star ratings in world-famous dining guides, offering elaborately crafted dishes across diverse genres such as Japanese, Italian, and French cuisine. Chefs also wield their skills with strong passion for Wagyu beef, and both creators and diners possess keen sensory discernment and appreciation."

As a way to enjoy Wagyu beef in Tokyo, it is recommended to savor diverse meat dishes such as yakiniku, sukiyaki, and shabu-shabu in multiple washoku experiences, as well as comparing different brands of beef and cuts of meat.

"Nihon Yakiniku Hasegawa" features Japanese-style yakiniku as its concept. The menu combines washoku with yakiniku, where the chefs' skills stand out prominently.

Matsusaka beef sirloin with matsutake mushrooms in sawani-wan style combines the Japanese sawani-wan clear broth dish—abundant with meat and vegetables—with yakiniku.

Koike comments on meat cuts: "Premium Wagyu beef cuts such as harami  [from around the diaphragm] and tan  [tongue] reach the market only through limited routes," and here he shares the unique appeal of each as well as how to enjoy them.

Tan  (tongue)
Circulation volume remains low, so even in Japan, few restaurants serve Wagyu beef tongue. "For the crispiest texture, well-done doneness works best. When grilling it yourself in yakiniku, start from the side with incisions, and flip it multiple times if the meat proves thick. For thin slices, grill briefly for a short time," states Koike.

Kuroge (black-haired) Wagyu beef kuro tan from Nihon Yakiniku Hasegawa: This tan comes from the area near the tongue root and exhibits a beautiful pink color with refined sashi.

Harami
This cut corresponds to the diaphragm and features beautiful sashi that extends deep into the muscle. "When grilling it yourself in yakiniku or similar settings, use high heat to lock in the umami. Spend about 80% of the time grilling one side over high heat, then quickly grill the other side for the remaining 20%," states Koike.

Kuroge Wagyu beef harami from Nihon Yakiniku Hasegawa features impressive sashi.

Producers and eaters unlocking the potential of Wagyu beef and passing it on to the future

Rising demand and acclaim have increased the number of people asking: "What constitutes the essential deliciousness of Wagyu beef?" This includes multi-layered aromas and overlapping umami, lingering aftertaste, and whether one senses the culinary culture or the producer's intent. Chefs and livestock farmers who handle Wagyu beef pursue and continually refine these possibilities—not just intuitive deliciousness—together with guests who visit from Japan and abroad full of anticipation. Come visit Tokyo yourself and join them in this endeavor.