Experience the Rich Food Culture of Hachijojima Island

Tokyo is a city where diverse cuisines from all over the world gather and evolve.
It is also the birthplace of various ingredients, including traditional Edo vegetables.

The seasonal blessings born from Tokyo’s unique natural environment,
the passion, stories, and smiles of the producers,
and the chefs who weave Tokyo’s food culture with traditional techniques and innovative ideas.

A one-of-a-kind Gastronomic experience in Tokyo
will surely give you new insights into your daily life.

Tokyo Gastronomy Tourism
Enjoy the food nurtured by the climate, environment, customs, traditions, and history of the land, and experience the local culinary culture at the essence of this trip.
The time spent learning, understanding, and savoring will color your experience.

Experience the Rich Food Culture of Hachijojima Island

The Tokyo Islands are brimming with breathtaking natural scenery and a vibrant culinary tradition. This time, the team visited Hachijojima Island, an island just a 55-minute flight from Haneda Airport. With a rich history and an environment that nurtures unique flavors, the island is filled with delicious discoveries.

Participant （Left photo）

Mayumi Satoi
Food Journalist / Director of the Japan Food Business Federation
With 15 culinary certifications, Mayumi Satoi is a renowned expert in food and food culture. She is active in various media outlets, including television, magazines, radio, and web platforms, and samples over 1,000 restaurants across Japan and worldwide annually. She also possesses extensive knowledge of gourmet sweets found in hotels, department store basements, and specialty mail-order products. Additionally, she serves as a committee member of the Council of Food, Agriculture and Rural Areas Policies.
https://www.instagram.com/mayumi.satoi?igsh=bnE5OWE2anY4bmgy

Facilitator （Right photo）

Ryuta Kijima
Culinary researcher
A culinary researcher born in Tokyo. He is popular not only for his home cooking recipes, which are full of ideas and written from the user’s viewpoint, but also for his lighthearted chat. He is also very interested in urban agriculture, and is in charge of a segment of an NHK program called "Ryuta Kijima’s Urban Agriculture and Tokyo" that takes a close look at urban agriculture in Tokyo.
https://www.youtube.com/@kijimagohan
https://www.instagram.com/ryutakijima/

Itinerary

①To Kaminato Fishing Port, the pillar that supports the islanders’ food products

Upon arrival, the first stop for the two of them was Kaminato Fishing Port, located in the northeast of Hachijojima Island. According to Mr. Shinichi Ozaki from the Hachijojima Island Fisheries Cooperative, the island benefits from the Kuroshio Current, making it rich in migratory fish. The most frequently caught fish here is kinmedai (splendid alfonsino), which is available year-round.

As usual, the port that day was lined with kinmedai and medai (Japanese butterfish) awaiting shipment.
"Other than those, the catch varies by season, but we get bonito, striped marlin, tuna, flying fish, mackerel scad, blue snapper (aodai), and long-tailed red snapper (onagadai), among others. The long-tailed red snapper keeps well, so the locals are particularly fond of it," says Mr. Ozaki.

As fishing boats were returning to the port one after another, we were given a special opportunity to observe the unloading process.
A fisherman said, "Today's catch is bonito and yellowfin tuna. We caught the yellowfin just nearby."
With that, they hauled up one massive fish after another, each over 80 cm long, and lined them up neatly.

Seeing this scene, Ms. Satoi’s eyes widened in surprise. “I always thought only small fish could be caught in Tokyo’s waters, but this is completely different! I can’t believe they can catch such impressive fish here!”
Mr. Kijima was equally amazed. “Yellowfin tuna, caught right near the port – guess that’s why this is Hachijojima Island!”
And then…
"Look, a sea turtle!"
A sea turtle was leisurely swimming past the fishing boats, sending the two into a frenzy of excitement. From the moment they arrived, they got a firsthand glimpse of the incredible richness of the ocean in Tokyo’s island region.

However, the island’s fishing industry also faces challenges.
"We can’t catch bonito like we used to. And with the increase in kinmedai fishing, their numbers are declining," said Mr. Ozaki.
Since it takes about 15 years for kinmedai to reach a certain size, the fishery cooperative is taking active steps toward sustainable practices. They refrain from fishing during the spawning season, tag and release fish to track their migration patterns, and take other measures to ensure the long-term viability of their catch.

The fish unloaded at Kaminato Port are sent to Toyosu Market, except for the portion purchased by island residents. Some of those fish even make their way into school lunches at public schools in Tokyo. Additionally, the women's division of the fishery cooperative visits elementary schools on the mainland each year to teach students about Hachijojima Island’s culture and how to prepare fish.
"Of course, we also teach kids on Hachijojima Island, so there are children here who know how to clean and fillet fish," Mr. Ozaki said with a proud smile.

②The Harmony of Marinated Fish and Mustard at Asoko Sushi

Asoko Zushi is the place to go for a taste of the fresh fish unloaded at Kaminato Port.
In the Izu Islands, sushi made with soy-marinated fish and mustard is commonly known as shima-zushi (island sushi). However, the shima-zushi at this restaurant refers to classic nigiri sushi featuring fish commonly eaten on Hachijojima Island. The selection that day included kinmedai (splendid alfonsino), bashō-ika (bigfin reef squid), aodai (blue snapper), yellowfin tuna, shima-aji (striped jack), and onagadai (long-tailed red snapper) as nigiri, along with a kitsune (hagatsuo, or striped bonito) sushi roll.
When asked about the origin of the name kitsune, owner Mr. Koki Asanuma explained:
"It’s a type of bonito, but it tastes like tuna, so it sort of tricks people - just like a fox does (‘kitsune‘ is Japanese for ’fox‘). Make sure to eat it first while the nori is still crisp!"

On the other hand, the shoyu-zuke shima-zushi (soy-marinated island sushi) platter featured kanpachi (greater amberjack), medai (Japanese butterfish), and nigiri topped with rock seaweed. Instead of wasabi, mustard was used as the condiment.
Ms. Satoi, taking a bite, looked astonished. “This is my first time trying sushi with mustard. It has such a mellow, well-rounded flavor. The vinegared rice isn’t too sharp, and the mustard doesn’t have that strong, pungent kick at all.”
Mr. Kijima was also intrigued. “Mustard actually pairs really well with sushi! And the marinade isn’t too salty - it’s just right. How long do you marinate the fish? Do you add mirin to the soy sauce?” he asked eagerly.

"We only use soy sauce," Mr. Asanuma explained. "Today, the kanpachi was marinated for about 40 minutes, and the medai for around 30 minutes, but the timing depends on the condition of the fish. There’s no strict rule - our ancestors knew it was ready when it turned a rich amber color." It seems that sushi with mustard originated on Hachijojima Island, though the exact history is unclear. "The soy marinade was a way to improve shelf life. And since mustard retains its spiciness longer than wasabi, they probably paired it with the marinated fish. But most importantly, it just tastes good - that’s why the tradition stuck around," Mr. Asanuma said.

One particularly fascinating aspect is how the islanders pair their condiments. Wasabi is used for regular nigiri sushi, mustard for soy-marinated sushi, and island chili peppers (shima tōgarashi) for sashimi.
Under Mr. Asanuma’s guidance, Ms. Satoi and Mr. Kijima tried crushing a small, 2 cm-long island chili pepper into their soy sauce.
"Whoa, talk about spicy! But the aroma is so refreshing!"
"It pairs so well with white fish sashimi! Guess there’s a lot I don’t know."
They savored the spicy kick of the chili, which enhanced the natural flavors of the fish.
With every bite, they not only enjoyed the island’s fresh, locally caught seafood but also gained a deeper appreciation for the wisdom of past generations and the rich history and traditions behind shima-zushi.

③Kusaya - A 150-Year-Old Tradition and the Pride of Hachijojima Island

Next, they visited Osada Shoten, a shop that produces Kusaya, a traditional preserved fish from the Izu Islands. The store’s second-generation owner, Mr. Takahiro Osada, engages in activities to convey the appeal of Kusaya and even offers tours of the processing facility.

Kusaya is a type of dried fish, but what sets it apart is the use of a brine called Kusaya eki. During the Edo period, salt was highly valuable in the Izu Islands, as the region was subject to a salt tax. To conserve resources, fishermen reused the same brine for marinating fish, adding only small amounts of salt as needed. Over time, the proteins in the fish began to ferment in the liquid, leading to the development of Kusaya eki, a brine rich in beneficial bacteria with strong antibacterial properties.

"Kusaya eki was introduced to Hachijojima Island from Nii-jima in the early Meiji period, and that’s when Kusaya-making began here. Each processor has their own unique brine, so the taste and aroma of Kusaya can vary greatly depending on who makes it. There are also differences between islands. The defining characteristics of Hachijojima Island’s Kusaya are twofold: first, we process freshly caught local fish while they’re still at their freshest; second, we soak the fish in water to remove excess salt. This extra rinsing step results in a milder aroma, making it easy to eat," Mr. Osada explained.

To make Kusaya, the fish are marinated in Kusaya eki for 12 hours, then soaked in water to reduce the saltiness before being air-dried in a drying chamber for 1-and-a-half to 2 days.

To experience the process firsthand, Ms. Satoi and Mr. Kijima tried submerging fish into the Kusaya eki. Using wooden sticks, they stirred the liquid to activate the beneficial bacteria. As they stirred, the distinctive Kusaya aroma wafted up, filling the air.
"Whoa! This is quite something…" They were surprised by the unique scent, at the same time gaining a deeper appreciation for the craftsmanship behind this centuries-old island tradition.

Because of its distinct aroma, Kusaya has both devoted fans who find it addictive and those who struggle with its strong scent. Even on Hachijojima Island, consumption among younger generations has declined, and over the past 30 years, the number of Kusaya processors on the island has dropped to about one-third of what it once was. Today, only two businesses, including Osada Shoten, are dedicated exclusively to Kusaya production.
"The fish we use for Kusaya, like flying fish and mackerel scads, are now only caught during limited seasons. It wouldn’t be surprising if production ceased entirely one day - things are that difficult. But despite the challenges, I continue to promote Kusaya for the sake of the island’s children," Mr. Osada said.

Hachijojima Island’s children learn about Kusaya through Mr. Osada’s lectures at school and visits to his processing facility. Many develop an interest in the island’s traditional food. "There was this time when a child came to my workshop and told me it smelled good. That moment changed everything for me. I stopped belittling Kusaya as being ‘stinky.’ Just like how the smell of curry makes people think, ‘We’re having curry tonight,’ I want Kusaya’s aroma to make people think: ‘Oh, today we’re having Kusaya!’ For the sake of the children, I want to be proud of the scent of Kusaya being the scent of Hachijojima Island."

After the tour, Mr. Kijima said, "Once a cultural tradition disappears, it’s nearly impossible to bring it back. And preserving it isn’t something that just one business can do alone. Through my work, I’ve had the chance to learn about local cuisine from people all over Japan, and I often wonder, ‘What happens to this dish when the person making it is gone?’ I truly hope Mr. Osada can pass Kusaya on to future generations. I think if Kusaya were to disappear, many people would be sad."

④Learning the History of "Tokyo Shimazake" at Hachijo Kohatsu

♪From the open seas, it looks like a demon island, but once you arrive, Hachijo is an island of warmth
These lyrics are from Shome-bushi, a traditional Hachijojima Island folk song, inspired the name of the local shochu (liquor), Nasakeshima. During their visit, Ms. Satoi and Mr. Kijima dropped by Hachijo Kohatsu, the distillery that produces this shochu, for a factory tour.

Welcoming them was third-generation owner Mr. Zenyu Komiyama, who explained that shochu production on Hachijojima Island dates back to the late Edo period (lasted about 260 years from 1603). According to legend, a Satsuma merchant named Tanso Shoemon was exiled to the island and passed down the knowledge of shochu-making. From there, the culture of shochu spread throughout the Izu Islands. Today, there are four distilleries on Hachijojima Island, and when locals talk about "sake", they are of course referring to shochu. Even the sacred offerings at Shinto shrines here use shochu.

"Kyushu shochu is made with rice malt, but the Izu Islands weren’t suited for rice cultivation, so they used barley malt instead. Rice malt gives a sweet, rich flavor, while barley malt creates a toasty, refreshing taste. That’s the key difference. Hachijojima Island, in particular, has abundant rainfall and soft, high-quality water, making it an ideal place for shochu production," Mr. Komiyama explained. Today, Hachijo Kōhatsu produces three types of shochu: mugi shochu, which is made from barley, imo shochu, made from sweet potatoes but using barley malt, and a third that blends the two.

Ms. Satoi and Mr. Kijima were given special permission to experience stirring the fermentation tank using a pole. "The inside looks cloudy. I can see bubbles rising to the surface," Ms. Satoi exclaimed in surprise. Mr. Komiyama explained, "That's because it's actively fermenting. The cloudy upper layer accumulates bacteria, so we stir it to mix the contents. This allows citric acid, which settles at the bottom, to rise and naturally kill off unwanted bacteria. It also helps distribute the carbon dioxide that has collected below."

Next was time for a tasting. Since they were sampling the shochu straight, the moment they tilted their glasses, a strong yet sweet aroma filled their noses. The liquid coated their tongues with a smooth, warming sensation, followed by the gentle burn of alcohol.
The Bakkan Nasakeshima, a barley malt and barley-based shochu, impressed Mr. Kijima with its distinct notes of cocoa and malted chocolate. Meanwhile, Ms. Satoi tried the Nasakeshima Imo, a barley malt and sweet potato shochu. "It has a sweet aroma like that of a sweet potato. It also a whisky-like taste, probably from the barley malt," she said, surprised by its balanced taste.

According to Mr. Komiyama, the shochu is composed of 75% Hachijojima Island’s water and 25% tasteless and odorless alcohol. But it also contains less than 1% high-grade fatty acids, which are the source of the aroma that lingers in the nose when drinking it. "People determine whether they like or hate that shochu by sniffing that aroma. If there are many high-grade fatty acids, the drink oxidizes. If there are too few, the fragrance disappears. Getting the right balance is difficult. Shochu is an alcoholic beverage in which brewers compete for individuality in a small world where only less than 1% is produced."

Despite its 170-year history, the shochu of the Tokyo Islands remains relatively unknown nationwide. To change this, distilleries in the Tokyo Islands have been actively promoting their products. In March 2024, the National Tax Agency designated the region with a Geographical Indication (GI*), allowing nine distilleries across the Izu Islands to label their products as Tokyo Shimazake.
"We're also collaborating with bars in central Tokyo and participating in various events. We don’t want to become a relic of the past, so we want to share the appeal of Tokyo Shimazake with more people, especially younger generations," Mr. Komiyama said passionately.
*A system in which the government registers and protects alcoholic beverages, agricultural products, etc. whose quality is tied to traditional production methods and characteristics of the region of production as regional brands.

⑤Savoring the Island’s Local Cuisine at Ryozanpaku

For dinner, they headed to Ryozanpaku, an izakaya specializing in the local cuisine of Hachijojima Island. Lining the counter were bottles of Nasakeshima and other varieties of shochu from the island. The menu featured freshly caught seafood from the fishing port, Kusaya from Osada Shoten, and high-quality cheese from the renowned Enkel to Hare cheese factory. Here, people can fully immerse themselves in the rich culinary culture of Hachijojima Island.

"Great job today! Cheers!"
The first dish recommended by Kazuyuki Yamada, the second-generation owner, was Budo. A traditional dish of Hachijojima Island, it is made by boiling and dissolving Kagiibara nori, a type of seaweed that contains a natural thickening agent similar to agar. Sliced fish and green onions are then added, seasoned with salt, and left to set.
"It has a strong aroma of the seashore. I expected a jelly-like texture similar to nikogori (jellied broth), but it's very crisp," said Mr. Kijima.

The second dish was the restaurant’s most popular item - Ashitaba Tempura. “With each bite, you can hear the crisp sound of the light batter. Its subtle bitterness is addictively delicious,” said Ms. Satoi. Known as Hachijoso, Ashitaba is a soul food of Hachijojima Island. It pairs well with a variety of dishes, including tea, ice cream, and pasta.

“That looks delicious too!” Ms. Satoi said, reacting to the next dish - Umikaze Shiitake No Kushiyaki (Grilled Seabreeze Shiitake Mushroom Skewers). With its high rainfall and humidity, Hachijojima Island provides an ideal environment for growing shiitake mushrooms. Both Ms. Satoi and Mr. Kijima couldn’t stop smiling at the sight of the thick, meaty Umikaze Shiitake, nurtured by the island’s sea breeze, being quickly grilled with a soy-based dashi.

The Hachijo Jersey Milk Mozzarella With Tomato featured cheese from Enkel to Hare. “The texture of the cheese is delightfully springy, and its rich, milky flavor spreads beautifully,” Ms. Satoi said.

For the Kusaya, Mr. Yamada taught them the proper way to eat it - first removing the head, then tearing it lengthwise, and finally shredding it into smaller pieces. “The smell completely disappears once it’s in your mouth. Wow, it’s delicious! And it pairs perfectly with shochu!” Mr. Kijima exclaimed, impressed by the charm of Kusaya.

After tasting the freshly caught kinmedai and bonito sashimi from Kaminato Fishing Port, Ms. Satoi was astonished. “This isn’t the texture of bonito that I know,” she exclaimed. Mr. Yamada, pleased with her reaction, replied, “Freshly caught katsuo is a whole new level.”
Since rough seas often prevent fishing boats from going out, there are many days when fresh fish is unavailable on Hachijojima Island. However, at Ryozanpaku, they strive to serve sashimi with the freshest fish whenever possible. “From a business standpoint, it’s tough, but we want our customers to enjoy the really delicious fish. Ingredients for traditional cuisine have become harder to source, but we do our best to keep the authentic flavors of Hachijojima Island alive,” Mr. Yamada said.

⑥To "Enkel to Hare", the Only Master Cheesemaker in the Tokyo Islands

The next morning, the two headed to Yuyu Dairy Farm, located within the grounds of Lido Park Resort Hachijojima Island. Around 40 Jersey cattle are being raised here, and visitors are welcome to explore freely (with some guidelines in place). During the day, the cattle are let out to graze in the forest, where they roam energetically. Ms. Satoi and Mr. Kijima couldn’t help but smile at the sight of the adorable, friendly calves.

The man who makes cheese using milk from these Jersey cattle is Mr. Takayuki Uotani, the only cheesemaker in the Tokyo Islands and the founder of the cheese workshop Enkel to Hare.
The cheeses that Mr. Uotani makes have won numerous awards, including the top gold prize at Japan’s largest cheese competition. The milk used in his cheeses has even been served at a state banquet hosted by the Prime Minister and his wife, earning it widespread acclaim. By the way, "Enkel" is Swedish for "normal is just right." The workshop’s name reflects Mr. Uotani’s vision of creating something special within everyday life.

Today, Ms. Satoi and Mr. Kijima were given special permission to experience making mozzarella cheese firsthand. They started with green cheese, a curdled form of milk made by adding lactic acid bacteria and enzymes to pasteurized milk, then draining off the liquid whey. At the stage where salt was added and the cheese was crumbled, it had a rough, crumbly texture. However, as soon as hot water was poured over it, it quickly transformed into a smooth, stretchy consistency - almost like mochi (rice cakes).

Next, they stretched the cheese up and down two or three times. Amazed at how effortlessly it stretched, the two exclaimed excitedly, “Wow! Look at it stretch all the way!”

“This process has the effect of aligning the cheese fibers vertically. As the cheese is gathered together, the fibers form delicate layers, almost like a mille-feuille, which help trap the rich flavors inside,” Mr. Uotani explained. Mr. Kijima was impressed, saying, “You can actually see the fibers! So this is the secret behind mozzarella’s delicious texture.”
After that, the two of them had a hard time squeezing the cheese until it was round and tearing them off, but they managed to somehow finish making the mozzarella cheese.

Tasting it, they found the cheese still slightly warm, with a firm yet springy texture. The rich milk flavor and subtle saltiness spread across their palates.
“This is delicious!”
“I think this is my first time eating freshly-made mozzarella cheese,” they said, their faces lighting up with joy.

Actually, Hachijojima Island has a long history of dairy farming dating back to the Meiji era.
“In the Meiji era, the island produced canned beef and butter. And in the Taisho era, there was even a cow here that set a world record for daily milk production - 75 liters in a single day! In fact, the top three milk-producing cows that year all came from Hachijojima Island. There are many old words in the island’s dialect related to cattle, which really shows how deeply connected Hachijojima Island and dairy farming have been throughout history,” Mr. Uotani said.

The ability to raise high-quality dairy cows on Hachijojima Island dates back to the efforts of past generations. They selectively bred magusa, a type of susuki grass native to the island, and cultivated it year-round as livestock feed. Even today, while Yuyu Dairy Farm continues to feed its cows with magusa, the cows also enjoy a diverse diet that includes wild ashitaba, sweet potato vines, kobunagusa (used as a dye for Hachijojima Island’s traditional yellow silk cloth), and even fruit such as lemons. The dairy products of Hachijo Jersey cattle are truly a reflection of the island’s climate, natural environment, and the ingenuity of its people - a genuine product of the land’s blessings. Looking ahead, Mr. Uotani hopes to expand dairy farming and beef production by utilizing abandoned farmland. “One day, we’d love to establish a premium beef brand from Hachijojima Island,” he said. The island’s rich dairy farming legacy is set to continue for generations to come.

⑦Hachijo Island jersey cafe is a Paradise for Dairy and Sweets Lovers!

Milk and other dairy products made from Yuyu Dairy Farm’s Jersey cattle, as well as sweets and beverages made using the island’s fruits, can be savored at Hachijo Island Jersey Cafe located in the Okago district.
The encounter between Mr. Shinya Utakawa, who is involved in its operations, and Mr. Uotani sparked new product development efforts, leading to a great rise in the appeal and recognition of Hachijojima Island’s dairy products over the past few years.

Inside the café, the display case is filled with an array of treats, including cheeses from Enkel to Hare, cheesecakes made from Jersey cattle milk, Ashitaba chiffon cakes and puddings. Ms. Satoi bought several cheeses, saying, “I want to compare the mozzarella I made with Mr. Uotani’s to see the difference.” The café’s most popular item is its soft-serve ice cream, while the drink menu features Jersey milk and yogurt-based beverages - making it a true haven for Jersey dairy lovers!

Tasting the rich yet refreshingly light Jersey milk soft-serve and the perfectly balanced Ashitaba-flavored soft-serve with its subtle bitterness, Ms. Satoi and Mr. Kijima said, “So that’s why it’s so popular!”, and smiled again.

And so, the two travelers concluded their one-night, two-day culinary journey through Hachijojima Island. They were asked about their thoughts.
"This trip was filled with discoveries about the island’s landscape, food culture, and traditions. From dairy farming and fishing to Kusaya, shochu, and local cuisine, we visited various places and spoke with producers, processors, and chefs. It gave me a deep understanding of Hachijojima Island’s food culture, and I learned so much. I was born in Tokyo, but I now realize how little I knew about Hachijojima Island. What a waste! The fact that it's just an hour from Haneda is also a huge plus, so I’ll definitely come back on my own time," said Mr. Kijima.
Ms. Satoi said, "Throughout the trip, I kept thinking, ‘Is this really Tokyo?’ The islanders’ deep passion for their food culture and traditions was inspiring. Seeing the origins of the cuisine - at the fishing ports and dairy farms - and then tasting the expertly crafted delicacies was truly rewarding. I also experienced the joy of learning new things and the excitement of having my own preconceptions challenged. Next time, I’d love to come back to eat Hachijojima Island’s sweets."

Hachijojima Island is a treasure trove of natural beauty, graced by the sea and mountains. Its idyllic pastures, where cows graze against stunning backdrops, are breathtaking. At night, the sky transforms into a natural planetarium, and in winter, visitors can enjoy whale watching. The island’s vibrant food culture is the result of generations of dedication by its people. Exploring its flavors and uncovering the stories behind each experience makes for an unforgettable journey.

（This article presents the implementation report of the project conducted by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government during the 2024 fiscal year, aimed at promoting the appeal of gastronomic tourism in Tokyo）

Destination

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