Tokyo, Where French Cuisine Meets the Craft and Produce of Japan

First-time visitors to Tokyo are likely to be surprised by the sheer number of restaurants serving non-Japanese cuisine there . In addition to restaurants serving Asian cuisines, there are many restaurants offering Western dishes. Some of these are branches of restaurants that expanded from their homeland to Tokyo, while others were established locally.  Above all, travelers are surprised yet again by their high quality. So, when did so-called Western cuisine first arrive in Japan?

It dates back to the early Meiji period (around 1870). Western cuisine introduced to Japan was adapted, not only in preserving their traditional forms but also modifying them to better suit Japan’s climate and culture. This led to the emergence of numerous dishes, including a new genre known as “Western-style cuisine” (yōshoku). 

We spoke with Chef Kenichiro Sekiya, who went to France to further invigorate Tokyo's already rich culinary scene. Trained under Joël Robuchon, one of the emperors of French cuisine, and now serving as Robuchon Tokyo's Executive Chef, he continues to engage with French cuisine in both Paris and Tokyo. We asked him about Tokyo's food scene, where tradition and innovation constantly intersect.

Learning Experiences in Paris and Tokyo

In the mid-1990s, while still in high school, Chef Kenichiro Sekiya was exploring his interests as he considered his future. Eventually, he became certain that cooking was what he loved and decided to pursue that path. After graduating high school and training at a culinary college, Sekiya moved to Paris in 2002. Upon joining L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Paris in 2006, he rapidly distinguished himself and was appointed sous-chef by the late Joël Robuchon himself at the young age of 26. Paris, like Tokyo, is a city where people gather, offering opportunities to work alongside individuals of many nationalities. Learning about their cultures, he says, led him to see things from new perspectives. Working in this diverse environment, Sekiya was assigned even greater responsibility four years later, tasked with overseeing one of Asia's largest markets—Tokyo.

Sekiya returned to Japan after receiving his assignment to manage Joël Robuchon Tokyo. At the time, Tokyo must have been one of the most desirable locales for him, as he had been thinking he would work anywhere that offered access to a wide variety of ingredients. When asked to reflect on that period and share his impressions of Tokyo, he said: “Tokyo struck me as a place where traditional and innovative elements intermingle. Above all, I think it’s a city where you can experience world-class cuisine across many different genres. Paris is one of the top five tourist cities globally, but even compared to that, Tokyo’s food culture was different.” He added, “It’s incredibly global. That said, it’s not just about anything goes; I think Tokyo is a place where you can experience things at a high standard.” Sekiya also shared that he realized Tokyo was the place that fulfilled his greatest culinary desire: access to diverse ingredients. “For a creator like me, Tokyo’s essence lies in the freedom to select ingredients and think creatively. Above all, I strongly feel it’s a place where ingredients gather from around the world, and where seasonal produce from across Japan converge.”

Chateau Restaurant Joël Robuchon in Tokyo’s Ebisu neighborhood is one of the city’s most iconic restaurants and architectural landmarks

Indeed, in Tokyo, anyone can enjoy diverse culinary experiences. For instance, on a special occasion, you can immerse yourself in the delicate flavors of kaiseki cuisine, where seasonal ingredients are meticulously prepared and served course-by-course in individual dishes. Or, today French, tomorrow Indian—in Tokyo, you can savor cuisine from a different country every single day of the week. Sekiya points out that this very richness of Tokyo’s food scene has cultivated discerning palates among diners, which in turn set higher standards for industry professionals. “Chefs of many different genres are competing in Tokyo, which helps them grow. And diners themselves gain broad experience by eating so widely. So, you really can’t get away with cutting corners here.” Sekiya, while grounded in classical French culinary techniques, blends ingredients from Japan and abroad, striving for excellence every day.

Cross-Cultural Concepts of Hospitality

Japan has the word omotenashi. The verb ‘motenasu’ (to entertain) becomes the noun ‘motenashi’ (hospitality), and omotenashi specifically expresses an attitude and consideration of devoting oneself purely to the comfort and satisfaction of others. When asked about his concept of omotenashi, Sekiya responded: “Well, everyone wants different things, and they’re all different, so there’s no right or wrong answer, is there? So, I think omotenashi is about fulfilling each person’s needs.” When asked about the restaurant’s particular focus in terms of service or creating the space, he added, “I think it comes down to the French word convivialité. That’s where our dedication as a restaurant lies.” This convivialité means a friendly and cheerful atmosphere, as well as user-friendliness.

Providing a special space, complete with a signature room fragrance, is one of Chef Sekiya's particular attentions to detail.

As the conversation turned slightly abstract, Sekiya shared a personal concern he’d been pondering lately: the “oshibori” (wet towel). “It’s simply about what’s the best temperature, I suppose…” While not served in France, Japan’s hot and humid summers led restaurants to offer damp towels to guests to freshen their hands before meals. As a gesture of welcoming guests, they’re appreciated by visitors from overseas. Sekiya’s concern centered on the temperature at which they should be provided. The standard practice is to provide them chilled during summer and warmed in winter, but Sekiya said, "People are usually happy to get a cold one on a hot summer day, but sometimes, even on a hot day, a warm towel feels nice. Plus, it depends on the time of day too. I guess worrying about things like that is very Japanese.” This attention to detail, even regarding the temperature of the oshibori, is part of omotenashi. Sekiya’s style lies in thoroughly understanding and respecting French convivialité and Japanese omotenashi—both of which move the hearts of those receiving the service—and this dedication shines through in every detail. The essence lies in providing delicious food, fulfilling each customer’s desires, and doing one’s utmost.

Compassion in Every Aspect

Chef Sekiya says, “I always cook with the mindset of ‘serving the very best to each and every guest.”

As the number of international travelers visiting Tokyo increases, so does the understanding of diverse dietary needs. Restaurants need to flexibly accommodate individual requests, from vegetarian and vegan options to allergy considerations, and religious dietary preparation methods. While more establishments in Tokyo are becoming capable of such accommodations, we asked Sekiya how his restaurant handles these requests. “Well, honestly, I don’t think about it particularly. Providing these accommodations is just normal procedure; it’s not difficult at all. We can accommodate walk-in guests, and reservations allow us to provide an even better experience. We basically honor any request.” He also mentioned flexible arrangements, like offering private rooms for families with children under 10 or using terrace seating for guests with pets. “I think it all comes down to the chef’s mindset. If someone asks, I’ll accommodate everything,” he said quietly. This attitude revealed that such consideration is second nature to him, a practice he has consistently upheld since returning to Tokyo.

He also talked about ingredients. For people coming from overseas, the chance to taste precious ingredients gathered from all over the world and from every corner of Japan is incredibly appealing. That’s why he handles each ingredient with care and creates delicious dishes every single day. While this is natural for Sekiya, his sense of what’s normal goes even further. He dislikes wasting ingredients himself, so he creates menus that use everything without discarding anything. This reflects Sekiya's compassion in every aspect of his work.

Distinctive Charm of Tokyo’s Culinary Scene

We also asked Sekiya, who lived in Paris for many years, about things unique in Tokyo food scenes that appeal to travelers. The first answer we got is counter-style restaurants. Whether it’s sushi, teppanyaki (ingredients grilled on a hot griddle), or yakitori (skewered grilled chicken and meats) , the most fascinating aspect is seeing the preparation right before your eyes. He also noted that the so-called B-grade gourmet (inexpensive but delicious comfort food) served at these counter-style spots holds particular interest for travelers.
The second is the appeal of kaiten-zushi (conveyor-belt sushi). Plates are placed on a conveyor-belt circulating around the restaurant, and when you order, your sushi plate will arrive at your seat via the rotating belt. Some describe it as resembling a mini sushi factory. He explained that such counter-style and conveyor-belt sushi restaurants are rare overseas, making them both novel and popular with travelers coming to Japan.

Constantly Evolving: Career-Defining Dishes

Sekiya says he has noticed that Tokyo has increasingly come to value freer expression and creativity, and saw an evolution in the breadth of ideas and innovation. “For French cuisine in Japan thirty or forty years ago, reproducing dishes exactly as in France was considered the highest standard” he recalls. “I believe the Japanese sensibilities of delicacy and meticulous attention to detail remain unchanged. But now and going forward, greater emphasis is placed on expressing regional uniqueness. While respecting the fundamentals of French cuisine, there’s also a desire to bring out something distinctively Tokyo, to express your own vision.”

When asked what he would consider his “signature dish,” Sekiya pauses to reflect. “A signature dish isn’t something that can be created so easily… And, as a chef, I don’t think I ever feel fully satisfied with anything I make, and I don’t think I’ll ever feel completely satisfied in my lifetime,” he says candidly. In that context, we asked him about a dish that particularly expresses Tokyo-like qualities. He paused again and began “I think there are two patterns. When it comes to capturing the essence of Tokyo, one approach is to create a dish using only ingredients sourced, produced, or cultivated within Tokyo itself. The other is to gather ingredients from all over Japan and the world – precisely because it’s Tokyo – and mix them together to create a dish.” When asked what kind of dish he envisions, he offered a hint: ”Hmm, well, when you have so many different ingredients and spices, it gets tricky. So I think it would be in a liquefied form – something like a consommé. That way, it would be easier to fuse the flavors together.” We look forward to seeing this concept come to life.

Though Chef Sekiya says his signature dish remains elusive, each plate he creates is a work of art. They are masterpieces to be savored with all five senses.

What struck us most during this interview were these words from Sekiya: “Whether I was in Paris or here now, I’m constantly struck by how little I actually know about Japan and Tokyo, even though I’m Japanese. I feel I need to learn more, to study more.” Despite his numerous accolades, it’s this earnest mindset and his approach to cooking that, while pursuing the essence of French cuisine in Tokyo, will continue to bring a fresh breeze. We can’t help but feel he will add color not only to French cuisine but to Tokyo’s culinary scene as a whole.