Tokyo, Where Traditional Kaiseki Cuisine Evolves with a Taste of Innovation

Japan has a culinary style known as kaiseki. In the 17^th century, kaiseki was a simple meal served at a tea ceremony to stave off hunger and warm the body before one drank the strong, stimulating thick green tea known as koicha. Since then, kaiseki has evolved into a luxurious full-course cuisine served at traditional high-end Japanese restaurants called ryōtei. Tokyo, formerly known as Edo, has always had good access to fresh, seasonal produce, whether seafood or vegetables. In kaiseki cuisine, it is standard practice to use fresh ingredients for each dish, so locally sourced seasonal produce has long been important. This concept of “local production for local consumption” has passed down to the present day.

Sushi, which became popular as a commoner’s food in the late 17th century, was eaten at the counter, as a snack. This evolved into today’s established counter-style dining, where guests and proprietor interact with each other, face to face. Our featured chef is a master of kaiseki cuisine. Through a fusion of tradition and innovation—employing locally sourced ingredients and counter-style dining while incorporating Western ingredients into Japanese dishes—he has developed his signature “new washoku (Japanese cuisine).”

All Roads Lead to Nihonbashi

Born and raised in Nihonbashi, Chef Kimio Nonaga is an edokko—a “child of Edo,” so the spirit of Edo runs deep in his roots. Nihonbashi is an area of Tokyo where tradition and innovation converge, preserving its long history and traditions while modern skyscrapers rise up alongside older, historic structures. Atop the bridge of Nihonbashi (Japan Bridge) is the official “mile zero” for Japan’s five traditional highways, making this area both a commercial hub and a symbolic gateway.

Many of Tokyo’s “firsts” also trace back to this area. In addition to Nihonbashi’s original seafood market and a department store, which still stands in the same location, Edo’s first merchant district took shape here. It includes a row of specialty shops with a storied past. These handle many of the essentials used in Japanese cuisine, from katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes) and kombu (kelp) to specialized kitchenware used by chefs like Nonaga, such as the slender yanagi-bōcho knife for slicing sashimi, and specialty items, like the sharkskin used for grating fresh wasabi (Japanese horseradish).

Training in Kyoto Leads to Rediscovering Tokyo

While many Japanese chefs start their career as an apprentice under a master chef, Nonaga first acquired his cooking skills and studied nutrition at Tokyo’s prominent Hattori Nutrition College. After graduating, he trained at Kyoto’s renowned Kikunoi, under master chef Yoshihiro Murata. Six and a half demanding years later, his master declared that Nonaga was ready to return to Tokyo and sent him off with the instruction to “look deeply into Edo-style dining culture and reexamine what’s locally available.”

Merging the Best of Both Worlds from Both Sides

Nonaga returned to the capital and took over the last ryōtei remaining in the Nihonbashi area, which had been in his family for three generations.

“The first thing I did after returning to Tokyo was to change the restaurant’s style while preserving the essence of a traditional ryōtei, which is to use seasonal ingredients, bring out their natural flavors, and offer a Japanese style of hospitality and entertainment to guests. I wanted to do something no one else had done,” he energetically begins, laughing as he clatters his wooden geta sandals behind the counter.

To suit today’s Nihonbashi, he has retained the traditional ryōtei atmosphere in private rooms, which are used to entertain guests in formal settings, while introducing a new counter seating called kappō style, which allows for a more casual yet refined dining experience. Nonaga continues, “The magic of the counter is that it tells a story. It’s the border between guest and chef, with curiosity brimming on both sides.” The advantage of this style is that meals unfold like they do at the theater, with front-row seats offering a full view of the open kitchen. He explains, “I want my guests to stay curious. I’m here behind the counter—they can see what I do, and ask me all sorts of questions…while I perform right in front of them.” 

He continues, “Kaiseki is about dishes and atmosphere that evoke the seasons—using seasonal ingredients, integrating seasonal events unfolding locally. For instance, in hot weather this means serving dishes in chilled glassware, hanging bamboo blinds over the window, serving cold dishes, and so on. It’s about providing cuisine where every detail carries meaning, evoking emotion through the ingredients and the overall atmosphere.”

After returning to Tokyo, Nonaga was driven by one thought: How can I get the most out of the dark Tokyo soy sauce? Soy sauce and miso often play key roles in  bringing out the natural flavors of each ingredient. In Japan, there are clear differences in the color and flavor of soy sauce depending on which region it comes from. Soy sauce from the Kanto region (Tokyo and its surrounding prefectures), called koikuchi, is typically dark and has a robust, sharp flavor, while that from the Kansai region (Osaka, Kyoto, and surrounding prefectures), called usukuchi, exhibits a lighter color and has a more subtle, elegant taste, though surprisingly with a higher salt content. In bringing out the natural flavors and colors of the source produce, which is a principle of kaiseki cuisine, Kansai soy sauce somehow works better. On returning to Tokyo, however, Nonaga was aiming to use local produce as much as possible. Recalling what master Murata had said, he invented a way to make use of both light and dark soy sauces, while retaining the natural flavor of the vegetables and keeping the color as light as possible. He thus merged the two distinctive soy sauces to create a new kaiseki style of his own. When in Japan, you can explore the different tastes of soy sauce as you travel around.

Local Ingredients, Collective Effort

Although one of the principles of kaiseki is to use seasonal ingredients, it is not just about serving dishes using locally sourced ingredients. Instead, Nonaga asserts, “It’s about the chef using local ingredients as well as the harmony produced by all the creators involved: the farmers and fishermen who grow or supply the produce, the local artisans who craft the tableware on which the food is presented, and so on.”

Many Tokyo-grown vegetables have unique names that identify their place of origin, and many of these have been grown since the Edo period. In an effort to preserve this vegetable culture, they have been classified as “Traditional Edo-Tokyo Vegetables.” Examples are Senju negi (leeks from Senju), Naito kabocha (pumpkins from Naito, a part of Shinjuku) and Naito tōgarashi (chili peppers from Naito), Nerima daikon (radishes from Nerima), Shinagawa kabu (turnips from Shinagawa), and goseki bansei komatsuna (mustard spinach from Edogawa), to name just a few. As for beef, pork and poultry, farms in areas of western Tokyo, like Hachioji and Machida, provide these ingredients.

“In everything we do, we are supported by dozens of individuals. I feel responsible for sharing Tokyo’s abundance of excellent ingredients,” Nonaga explains. “When guests come here, I want them to know that this leek is not just any leek—it’s a traditional Tokyo-grown variety.” Moreover, to deliver such local produce requires less fuel and manpower, and Tokyo chefs can always be sure of obtaining the finest fresh produce whenever they wish. 

As his way of honoring tradition while creating something innovative, Nonaga chose to call his kaiseki style “new washoku.”

Reinventing Tradition for Modern Tokyo and Beyond

In choosing to call his kaiseki “new washoku,” Nonaga was also indulging in some wordplay. “Since the Japanese character for cow’s milk sounds like ‘new,’ we looked for dairy products made in Tokyo.” He develops new recipes based on traditional cuisine but always adds a twist to create something new. “Using dairy in kaiseki was a challenge.” He continues, “While some chefs say dairy does not work with Japanese dishes, I use cheese in mine, and they go well together.” One of his signature dishes is chawanmushi—a savory steamed egg custard seasoned with dashi broth to bring out umami*. Leading off each meal at his restaurant, it is served hot in winter and chilled in summer. It can be topped with delicacies that go well with sake or wine, such as konowata (fermented sea cucumber intestines) or shirako (cod milt). However, Nonaga often uses mozzarella cheese, an unconventional topping for chawanmushi. Made with eggs from Kato Farm in Machida in the western suburbs of Tokyo, and crowned with tiny rice crackers, the dish combines the silky texture of custard with a delicate crunch. He says, “Many guests are surprised to hear that we use locally grown ingredients, even cheese produced in Tokyo. I feel responsible for advertising their existence and for introducing another facet of Tokyo.”

※* Umami, the fifth basic taste, discovered in Japan, which gives dashi its distinctive flavor.

Hospitality that Shines with Tokyo’s Diversity and Flexibility

In Nonaga’s words, “The spirit of constant progress, constant evolution, and trying new things are crucial,” and he adds, “Part of Tokyo’s appeal is that it provides a platform which truly embraces this approach, I believe.”

Asked if he has any hints for diners to fully enjoy their time at his restaurant, Nonaga smiles and says he encourages mindfulness of local customs. Some restaurants in Japan send customers detailed notes with reservations to ensure meals are enjoyed with all five senses. However, Nonaga’s Nihonbashi Yukari prefers a more welcoming approach and does not issue a list of rules. However, “If I were to pick one caution, it would concern the wearing of perfume.” Nonaga says. “At restaurants in Japan, scent can affect how fellow diners enjoy the meal, so it should be avoided as much as possible.”

What Awaits You in Tokyo

A small rock garden frames the approach, offering a feast for the eyes and soul, while sudare blinds soften the sun’s rays at Nihonbashi Yukari’s entrance. The stone pathway is sprinkled with water before opening—uchimizu is a traditional practice that cools the path on hot days. It is a part of omotenashi that starts even before the guest steps inside.

As you can see, Tokyo offers diverse ways to experience kaiseki cuisine—from traditional ryōtei establishments to more accessible kappō restaurants. Watching a chef’s carving skills from across the counter or asking about the ingredients used sparks conversation and adds a bond between chef and guest. These restaurants, like Nihonbashi Yukari, practice local sourcing and embrace Tokyo’s local produce, including Traditional Edo-Tokyo Vegetables. Chefs meticulously select everything from ingredients to serving plates, preserving tradition while at the same time evolving. We invite you to experience such establishments firsthand in Tokyo, a global culinary capital.

Appendix: A to Z of Tokyo Produce

These are examples of the Tokyo-grown produce, including Traditional Edo-Tokyo Vegetables, that Nonaga often uses and which are mentioned in this article.

• Goseki bansei komatsuna (Japanese mustard spinach) is from the Komatsugawa area of Edogawa. Common komatsuna spinaches are bok choy hybrids that can be harvested year-round but they introduce bitterness as a result. Goseki bansei komatsuna, on the other hand, lacks bitterness because it was developed from traditional local spinach to be harvested throughout the year.
• Both Naito kabocha (pumpkin) and Naito tōgarashi (chili pepper) are from an area near the Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden in bustling Shinjuku. Originally located in this area, called Naito-machi, was the first staging post station from Nihonbashi on the Kōshū Kaidō, one of the five highways of the Edo period.
• Senju negi is a traditional leek produced in the Senju area of Adachi. The original seed is said to have been brought to Edo from Osaka more than 400 years ago.
• Tokyo Beef, a brand of high-quality Japanese wagyū beef—with exquisite marbling, tenderness, and rich umami—that comes from cattle farms located in the Hachioji, Okutama, and Akikawa areas.
• Tokyo X, a quality brand of pork that features marbling, rarely seen in pork, and comes from pigs bred and raised in Tokyo. The number of farmers producing it has dropped drastically, but Nonaga only sources Tokyo X from the Sawai Farm located in Hachioji.