Kozushima : Taste the Ocean's Bounty

Just 180 km from central Tokyo: Hop on a high-speed jet ferry from a nearby port, and in under two hours you’ll arrive at Kozushima Island—a magical island that draws visitors from around the world. Famous for its jaw-dropping scenery, crystal-clear spring water, and creative dishes made with unique local ingredients, Kozushima also offers one of the greatest rewards: Incredibly fresh seafood straight from the sea—fish so good they could easily appear at the Tsukiji or Toyosu markets.

Here, we introduce the unique food culture that has flourished on Kozushima, along with its incredibly delicious seafood—and the best spots where you can savor them both.

Flavors of Kozushima: Born from the island's rich nature

From the port of Tokyo, starting at Izu-Oshima Island just 120 km south and all the way to Hahajima, nearly 1,000 km away, Tokyo's Izu Island chain stretches across 11 beautiful isles. Born from massive volcanic eruptions around 20 million years ago, these islands boast dramatic rugged terrain and intricate coastlines. Thanks to warm ocean currents, they enjoy a mild climate year-round, nurturing bountiful crops and receiving the ocean’s generous gifts—all of which have shaped a truly unique and delicious island food culture.

From nutrient-packed ashitaba (Angelica keiskei leaf) to sweet-tart passion fruit, Tokyo's Izu Island chain produces standout crops. And thanks to the warm, nutrient-rich Kuroshio Current, the surrounding seas deliver exceptional seafood that feeds island life and captivates countless tourists.

Kozushima stands out in particular. This island is famous for its abundant catches of "kinmeidai"—a prized type of splendid alfonsino. You can enjoy a wide variety of fresh seafood here, including gnomefish  (kuromutsu ) and red squid (akaika ), while bonito fishing has thrived since ancient times. Another major highlight is the island’s pristine groundwater, officially recognized as one of Tokyo’s finest spring waters. Rich in minerals, this exceptional water helps crops grow sweeter and more flavorful, and is also used in cooking—becoming the very foundation of Kozushima’s delicious island cuisine.

On Kozushima, charming restaurants await where you can fully experience the island’s one-of-a-kind allure.

According to legend, the island’s very name originates from a mythical gathering of the gods.

Yocchare Center: Exploring Kozushima's ocean treasures

Yocchare Center.

Step off the boat at Maehama Port—Kozushima’s seaside gateway—and you’ll immediately sense how generously the sea has blessed this island with its treasures.

Just steps from the ferry terminal, Yocchare Center offers the perfect introduction to Kozushima’s ocean bounty: The first floor is a vibrant seafood shop packed with locally caught processed delicacies, while the second floor welcomes you with a restaurant focused on fresh fish dishes.

Vibrant fresh seafood lined up at Yocchare Center

The restaurant serves the true "Kozu no aji" ("Taste of Kozushima")—delicious set (teishoku) meals featuring ultra-fresh seasonal sashimi and other island specialties.

Directly operated by Kozushima's fisheries cooperative, this center processes the day’s catch right on the premises, guaranteeing exceptional freshness. Local specialties and a wide range of creative seafood dishes are proudly displayed for you to take home or enjoy on the spot.

Upstairs, the restaurant serves generous portions of island soul food: whole simmered kinmeidai  and the signature teishoku  set meal—fresh seasonal sashimi paired with rice, miso soup, and sides. Rooted in traditional home cooking, many dishes proudly feature the island’s famous nutrient-rich ashitaba  leaf.

"Our food is made the traditional way, with plenty of time and love," the staff say with pride. "The star of the menu is always kinmeidai. Take one bite, and you’ll instantly taste the pure deliciousness of Kozushima’s seafood and the heartfelt flavors of island home cooking."

An "aged fish studio": Pursuing the true charm of the island's catches

"I got so hooked on fishing that I decided to move here," Tamaki says with a big smile.

There are also passionate locals who devote themselves to elevating the island’s fish dishes to new heights. Since moving to Kozushima from Shizuoka in 2019 with his wife, Akio TAMAKI has been running a workshop on aging fish, where he carefully ages fresh catch using his own special techniques and sells the resulting gourmet treasures.

Through a sophisticated pre-treatment method that has been attracting attention lately, any bitterness or off-notes are gently removed, and the fish is then aged for several days. This process concentrates the umami and creates rich, complex flavors. The artisans behind it never stop experimenting—all in pursuit of making Kozushima’s exceptional seafood even better.

"The sea around Kozushima gives us beautifully fatty, incredibly tasty fish," Tamaki says enthusiastically. "My goal is to protect their high quality and find new ways to make them even more delicious for everyone to enjoy."

Thanks to powerful currents rich in plankton and an intricate, winding seabed, the waters around Kozushima are an ideal home for fish to grow big and strong. "Fish from these waters are famous for their excellent, meaty texture," says Tamaki with a smile. His workshop’s aged fish are sold both in stores and online, and are also served fresh at the adjoining Jukusei Gyo Sushi BAR ("Aged Fish Sushi BAR").

"We offer unusual and lesser-known fish that you don’t often encounter, so we make sure to explain them carefully to every customer," Tamaki tells us with enthusiasm. "Sometimes, we even share interesting stories about the vibrant seas around Kozushima."

Tamaki’s heartfelt mission to showcase the true deliciousness of Kozushima’s fish and to evolve the island’s rich traditional seafood culture will keep moving forward for years to come.

At Jukusei Gyo Sushi BAR, the lunch menu celebrates Kozushima’s ocean bounty. One standout is their hearty ara-jiru—a rich, umami-packed fish bone soup made by using every part of the fish, from head to tail, with zero waste.

Enjoy traditional fish cuisine at Nakamuraya: Kozushima’s beloved historic inn

Fresh kinmeidai served in warm, traditional home-cooked style.

Kozushima’s iconic fish—the kinmeidai—is caught using traditional single-line fishing. Because of this gentle method, the flesh remains virtually undamaged, arriving at the port in pristine condition. You can savor its exceptional flavor at many restaurants and inns across the island.

One of the best examples is Nakamuraya, a beloved ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) that has been run by the same family for three generations. Proprietress Yoshimi NAKAMURA, whose brother is a kinmeidai fisherman, tells us warmly: "We put kinmeidai at the heart of our menu and try to use as many local island ingredients as possible."

Picture a whole kinmeidai so large it spills over the edges of the plate—thick, fatty, and perfectly braised in a glossy sweet-and-spicy soy sauce. This legendary simmered kinmeidai is so good that many regulars visit Nakamuraya specifically for it.

"We don’t aim to do anything special or flashy," says Nakamura with a warm smile. "Our greatest wish is simply to share the traditional home cooking of Kozushima. The island may not offer trendy activities, but it offers something even better—relaxing hot springs, wonderfully delicious meals, and quiet, restorative time."

Hyuga Brewery: Savor local flavors in every pint

This is a true brewpub with its own brewing equipment right on the premises. The owner, Miyagawa, also runs a liquor wholesaling business.

Hyuga Brewery, a brewpub that opened in 2017, brews and serves craft beer in its adjoining shop. Their "Angie" beer, made with ashitaba  (known in English as "Angelica keiskei"), a plant known for its high nutritional value and as a superfood, has a unique, slightly bitter taste.
Opened in 2017, Hyuga Brewery is a lively brewpub that brews its own craft beer on the premises. Their popular "Angie" beer (with the name taken from the English name of the plant: "Angelica keiskei"), made with ashitaba —the island’s nutrient-rich superfood—delivers a distinctive, refreshing bitterness that keeps you coming back for more

"Ashitaba  is the ultimate island specialty," owner Fumiko MIYAGAWA says cheerfully. "I tried using it casually at first, but it matched so well and tasted so good that it became one of our favorites!"

Signature "Angie" beer, bursting with the distinctive flavor of ashitaba, and ashitaba pizza—the perfect companion for a refreshing pint.

And if you're in the mood for something stronger, Hyuga Brewery also serves genuine shochu  (a traditional Japanese distilled spirit) from the local KOZUSHIMA SHUZO brewery.

Every island in the Tokyo Izu Island chain has its own unique style of shochu , each with a loyal following and recognized as a beloved local specialty. In 2024, these island shochu  types proudly earned the government’s GI designation—"GI Tokyo Shimazake" ("GI Tokyo Island Sake")— officially protecting their quality and place of origin.

Kozushima's agricultural cooperative: Showcasing the unique flavors of island life

At the heart of the island, Kozushima's agricultural cooperative collects fresh produce from local farms and runs a vibrant market. The shelves overflow with island treasures: nutrient-rich ashitaba , refreshing island lemons, sweet "America imo " potatoes that were once a daily staple, juicy passion fruit, and many other vegetables and fruits grown in Kozushima’s fertile soil.

You’ll also find a delightful range of passion fruit products at the cooperative. What’s especially charming is that many of these unique local specialties were inspired by the ideas and wishes of the people who visit.

The island’s sweet passion fruit has inspired a range of tempting treats—from rich jams and fragrant syrups to crunchy passion fruit senbei (rice crackers).

Next time you visit Tokyo, why not venture a little further and discover Tokyo's Izu Island chain? Start with Kozushima and immerse yourself in the island’s distinctive, soul-warming food culture—an experience you won’t find anywhere else.

Destination

The facilities and shops that collaborated on this article:

Click here for tourist information about Tokyo's islands

DESTINATION TOKYO ISLANDS：
This website showcases the stunning landscapes and unique cultural charm of Tokyo's islands, including the Izu-Oshima Island and Ogasawara Island archipelagos. In addition to travel reports and recommended itineraries, visitors can immerse themselves in the islands' atmosphere through music featuring the sounds of local wildlife and daily island life.
https://shima.metro.tokyo.lg.jp/