Makunouchi Bento: Food Culture at Kabukiza

In Tokyo, culinary traditions rooted in the mid-19th century, when samurai still walked the streets of Edo, continue to be carefully preserved today.

Makunouchi bento, regarded as the origin of Japan’s boxed meal (bento) culture, in which rice and side dishes are arranged in a portable container, is another creation born from the people of Edo. Developed to accompany “kabuki”, the city’s iconic form of theater, makunouchi bento evolved in response to the needs of its audiences.

To explore its origins, aesthetic sensibility and the way it is enjoyed, we spoke with historical novelist and Edo culinary culture researcher Ukiyo Kuruma.

Makunouchi Bento: Born from the Theater Culture of the Edo Period

At Kabukiza in Ginza, Tokyo, performances of “kabuki”, Japan’s traditional form of theater, are staged throughout the year. While kabuki is also performed in Kyoto, Tokyo is the only city where it can be seen year-round. For first-time viewers, the "Hitomaku-miseki" (single-act seats), which are mainly sold on the day of the performance, are particularly recommended. A typical kabuki program consists of three to four acts and runs for around four hours in total. With a "Hitomaku-miseki" ticket, visitors can enjoy just one act, making it easy to stop by during a day of sightseeing in Tokyo.

Although there are many different types of performances, audiences in Tokyo are especially fond of "aragoto", a bold and dynamic style known for its exaggerated movements and dramatic action. Its strong physicality makes it accessible and easy to follow for international visitors.

No kabuki performance is complete without "makunouchi bento". Eaten in theaters since the Edo period, this boxed meal is traditionally enjoyed by audiences during intermissions and is considered one of the pleasures of attending kabuki. There are several theories about the origin of its name. Originally prepared for actors and backstage staff, it was later made available to theatergoers as well. The most widely known theory is that the name shifted in meaning from “a bento eaten by actors behind the curtain, in the ‘Maku no uchigawa’ (backstage)” to “a bento eaten between the curtains, in the ‘Maku to Maku no aida’ (the interval between acts).”

During the Edo period, kabuki performances ran from morning until night, making it essential to eat a bento during the "maku-ai" intermissions between acts. Edokko, or Tokyo natives, are said to have dressed up in rented attire and set out before dawn, spending the day enjoying kabuki alongside food and sake. Even today, during special performances such as "shumei", in which an actor inherits a master’s stage name, or debut appearances, known as "kaomise" performances that formally present actors to the audience, specially prepared bento associated with the featured actor are sometimes sold and attract great popularity.

Another distinctive feature of Japanese theater architecture is the "masu-seki", box seats divided in a grid pattern over tatami flooring, where several people sit together. In the Edo period, these were casual spaces where commoners gathered and relaxed in groups. Today, however, because of their cultural value and sense of exclusivity, "masu-seki" are priced higher than standard seats with chairs.

Utagawa Toyokuni III, “Odori keiyo Edo-e no sakae,” Collection of the Tokyo Metropolitan Library. On the hanamichi stands Kawarazaki Gonjurō I, later known as Ichikawa Danjūrō IX.

A scene of kabuki viewing in the Edo period. At the time, eating and drinking were permitted, performances ran from morning to night, and audiences would relax until their favorite actor appeared, making kabuki a more familiar and casual form of entertainment than it is today.

Utagawa Toyokuni III, “Tōto kōmyō kaiseki zukushi: Hige no Ikyū,” collection of the Tokyo Metropolitan Library. The image depicts makunouchi bento itself.

The Appeal of Makunouchi Bento: Edo Aesthetics for the Eyes and the Palate

The name "makunouchi bento", referring to a boxed meal that pairs white rice with a variety of side dishes, became established in the late Edo period. Born from theater culture, it came to be enjoyed as a meal that added color and pleasure to the kabuki experience.

Edo culinary culture researcher Kuruma notes, “There is a shared aesthetic and sensibility that runs through Edo cuisine.” Edokko, who prized iki, a refined sense of stylish simplicity, along with a playful spirit, brought ingenuity to their cooking, paying attention not only to flavor but also to presentation and ease of eating.

For commoners of the time, a day at the theater was a special occasion. The "makunouchi bento" that accompanied it became a symbol of generous hospitality, adding color to the experience. Because eating was permitted inside the theater even during the performance, the rice was shaped into small, disc-like grilled rice balls so it could be eaten easily in the dim light. Today, small cylindrical portions of white rice are standard, both forms reflecting careful consideration for ease of eating.

The side dishes, while conveying a sense of occasion, were also chosen with thoughtful restraint so as not to disturb the performance. Items were soft, easy to chew, and would not make noise when eaten. Typical components include red-and-white "kamaboko," a savory steamed fish cake whose colors are associated with good fortune in Japan, along with tamagoyaki rolled omelet and grilled tofu. While these ingredients are now readily available at supermarkets across Japan, both kamaboko and eggs were once considered luxury foods. Modern "makunouchi bento" are more colorful and offer a wider variety of dishes, yet the consideration of avoiding noise remains unchanged.

Within a single "makunouchi bento", one can sense a distinctly Japanese code of conduct: to enjoy the moment fully while never forgetting consideration for others.

Makunouchi bento in the Edo period (left) and today (right). The Edo-period version features grilled rice balls along with kamaboko and eggs, which were considered luxury ingredients at the time, while the modern version includes more elaborate items such as sashimi and tempura. Both are arranged in a festive style suited to special occasions, with careful attention paid to ensuring they can be eaten without making noise.

How to Enjoy Kabukiza in Tokyo and "Makunouchi Bento"

To enjoy "makunouchi bento" at Kabukiza, it is important to first check the type of seat. The traditional Japanese box seats, partitioned into squares and lined with tatami, are known as "masu-seki". In some of these seats at Kabukiza, if reserved in advance, a colorful and generously arranged "makunouchi bento" can be delivered directly to your seat during the intermission. The containers are collected afterward by staff, so there is no need to leave your seat, allowing for a luxurious experience reminiscent of Edo-period theatergoing.

By contrast, the "Hitomaku-miseki", which allow audiences to watch just a single act, do not include bento service. If you wish to dine, you can purchase a meal at the theater’s shop and enjoy it quietly at your seat or in the lobby during the "maku-ai" intermission. Eating during the performance is discouraged, and basic etiquette calls for consideration regarding scent and sound. English-language audio guides are also available, making it easy for first-time visitors to enjoy both the performance and the meal with confidence.

Kabukiza, located in Ginza, Tokyo. Originally opened in 1889, it has been rebuilt several times following fires and earthquakes. The current building, completed in 2013, is the fifth generation, combining a traditional exterior with modern facilities.

A Bento Born of Edo’s Theater Culture, Still Loved Today

In Japan, the culture of bringing along a meal to enjoy outdoors or while traveling, known as "bento", has long been rooted in everyday life. Among these, "makunouchi bento", which originated from kabuki theatergoing in the Edo period and spread alongside theater culture, has become a classic. Today, it is widely available at specialty bento shops and as ekiben railway station lunches, and remains one of the most popular styles among Japan’s many boxed meals.