Sukiyaki and Tokyo: A Story of Circulation

Wagyu beef sizzling in the pot right in front of you, the sweet aroma of sukiyaki sauce made with soy sauce and sugar, and the moment it’s dipped into beaten egg before eating. Sukiyaki is a Japanese hot pot dish in which meat and vegetables are grilled and simmered in a sweet-and-savory soy-based seasoning, then dipped in raw beaten egg. In Japan, eggs are handled with exceptional freshness control and strict hygiene standards, making it safe to enjoy them raw. Their rich, creamy texture adds a silky depth to dishes and is a must-try part of the country’s food culture.

This article explores what sukiyaki is, how the dish developed in its own distinctive way in Tokyo, and how to experience authentic sukiyaki in the city today. From the culture of sukiyaki shaped by Tokyo as a center of consumption, to the spirit of hospitality valued by sukiyaki restaurants, and the long-standing circular food culture that underpins it, we look at the depth of Tokyo’s sukiyaki tradition.

What is Sukiyaki? The Culinary Artistry of Wagyu, Vegetables, and Egg

Wagyu takes center stage in sukiyaki. The defining feature of wagyu is marbling - fine streaks of fat distributed throughout the meat. This delicate fat melts in the mouth, creating the rich texture and gentle sweetness that make wagyu so distinctive.

However, sukiyaki is not defined by wagyu alone. The dish also includes a variety of vegetables and ingredients such as green onions, shiitake mushrooms and tofu. In Japanese cuisine, it is important to highlight the natural flavors of ingredients and to enjoy produce at its seasonal peak. The vegetables used in sukiyaki change with the seasons, bringing subtle variations in flavor.

Among these ingredients, green onions are essential. Tetsuro Takaoka, president and CEO of Ningyocho Imahan, which has run sukiyaki restaurants for more than 130 years, explains: “The combination of green onions and beef is indispensable when talking about the flavor of sukiyaki. After eating the beef, taking a bite of green onion refreshes the palate, while the sweetness of the green onion and the meat come together to create a rich, layered taste.”

Depending on the season, ingredients such as tomatoes, eggplant and okra may also be added. Takaoka recommends finishing the meal with shungiku (chrysanthemum greens), a leafy vegetable with an herb-like aroma. “The gentle bitterness of shungiku tightens the palate after it has been filled with the sweetness of sukiyaki,” he says. In this way, every ingredient in sukiyaki has its own flavor and role. The dish comes together through the collaboration of these elements, each contributing to the overall harmony. 

And we must not forget the eggs. First, beat the raw eggs, then dip the piping-hot meat and vegetables into them, adding a rich, velvety smoothness to each bite. 

Sukiyaki, a dish that lets you fully enjoy the flavor of beef, has its origins deeply intertwined with the history of beef in Japan. For a long time, Japanese cattle were raised primarily for farming and transportation. After their working lives ended, some of these were eaten, and their taste was known to a limited number of people. However, due to Buddhist beliefs and the desire to protect cattle used for agriculture, people gradually refrained from eating beef, and eventually the consumption of beef was officially prohibited.

The situation began to change in the late 1800s. For more than 200 years, from the 17th century onward, Japan had limited trade with other countries. However, in the 19th century, as contact with Western nations resumed, the government began to encourage the consumption of beef to improve public health and strength. Eating beef, a high-quality source of protein, became a matter of national policy.

The first dish to become popular was gyunabe (beef hot pot), the precursor to sukiyaki. Gyunabe spread as an affordable meal for the working class. It was a dish created collectively: shop owners and customers together added green onions and other vegetables, experimented with dipping ingredients in eggs, and developed the ways of enjoying it.

Sukiyaki Culture Nurtured by Tokyo, a Major Center of Consumption

We must also remember that sukiyaki became the refined dish it is today in part because Tokyo served as a major center of consumption. In the mid-17th century, during the Edo period, the shogun undertook the development of waterways to support the city’s growth. The large river in Tokyo was redirected and new canals were constructed, allowing goods from various regions to be transported downstream to the city.

By the late 19th century, when contact with Western countries resumed, Tokyo had become the center of a meat-eating culture. A distribution network developed connecting Tokyo, as the main consumption hub, with the major beef-producing regions in western Japan.

Takaoka explains: “At first, the regions where cattle were raised did not develop a meat-eating culture. It was only after beef dishes like sukiyaki became popular and appreciated in Tokyo, a major center of consumption, that a meat-eating culture began to emerge in the production regions. Tokyo’s food culture has always developed with the idea of supporting producers and adding value for distributors.”

Tokyo’s role as a major center of consumption has helped sukiyaki flourish - not just by consuming it, but by fostering a long-standing culture of circulation with producers and distributors. 

“Tokyo is a city facing the sea. Nutrients from the mountains and from human activity flow through rivers into Tokyo Bay, creating rich waters that support abundant fish. By trading these fish at high prices, producers earn profits, which in turn are enjoyed by the city - a cycle that has long sustained Tokyo’s food culture. Sukiyaki works in the same way. When high-quality sukiyaki is appreciated in Tokyo, beef producers are motivated to raise better cattle. This cycle has nurtured both wagyu and the culture of sukiyaki.”

Sukiyaki is best enjoyed omakase-style, with the staff taking the lead at the table

Staff prepare sukiyaki right at the table, in front of diners.

In many Tokyo sukiyaki restaurants, staff prepare the dish right at the table, in front of diners. This is one of the biggest charms of sukiyaki.

“Each sukiyaki pot reflects the efforts of the producers, the careful selection of ingredients by the restaurant, and the hospitality of the person cooking it,” explains Takaoka. “Why are these vegetables used? Where does this tofu come from? Don’t hesitate to ask the staff preparing your sukiyaki at the table. In their answers, you’ll discover the depth and richness of Tokyo’s sukiyaki culture.”

Each restaurant has its own unique “blueprint” for making sukiyaki. Some start by searing a slice of meat, others by grilling the green onions first. The specially crafted soy-and-sugar reduction, known as warishita, is added at precisely calculated moments. The cook weaves the sukiyaki like a storyteller, unfolding its story bite by bite.

Takaoka recommends omakase-style (attentive tableside service with preparation handled by a skilled server), with the staff taking the lead at the table, for enjoying sukiyaki in Tokyo. “The cook creates the best sukiyaki each day based on the ingredients, the diner’s preferences, and years of experience. First, just enjoy the dish, then share your feedback - whether you’d like the meat cooked a little more or the flavor a bit stronger. The staff always check to make sure it suits your taste, and giving guidance at that point lets you enjoy the meal to the fullest.”

Through sukiyaki, you can also feel the spirit of mottainai (avoiding waste and valuing resources) that permeates Tokyo’s food culture. To prevent leftovers, the cook constantly pays attention to each diner’s appetite while preparing the dish. This mindset is deeply ingrained in Tokyo’s dining traditions. “Hot pot culture is all about sharing,” explains Takaoka. “You give and receive, recommend ingredients to each other, and at the end, the cook may suggest how to enjoy the remaining ingredients… It’s a culture of finishing everything together, appreciating every part of the meal.”

Finally, Takaoka says: “What Tokyo, as Japan’s largest center of consumption, must do is take responsibility for creating a cycle of exchange that matches its scale. It is our duty - and I believe the mission of Tokyo’s food culture - to ensure that visitors from overseas can also respect and appreciate this culinary tradition.”

Sukiyaki is one of Tokyo’s signature dishes, embodying the rich flavors of wagyu and seasonal vegetables, the hospitality of skilled cooks, and a culture of culinary circulation. When visiting Tokyo, be sure to experience sukiyaki and savor its depth and complexity.