Discover Tokyo through Japanese gibier

Have you heard of Japanese gibier cuisine?

This emerging food culture makes use of delicious wild game, including birds, deer, and wild boar.

In Tokyo, a city known for its diverse culinary scene that attracts foodies from around the world, a new Japanese food culture centered around wild game meat is emerging and gaining momentum.

We had the opportunity to learn more about gibier from the president of the Japan Gibier Promotion Association, who is working to share the joy of gibier culture in Japan. We also spoke with a Tokyo-based chef who is also a hunter himself and features gibier in his signature dishes. These experts shared with us what makes Japanese gibier so appealing from their own unique perspectives.

Join us on our journey to explore the new culinary world of Japanese gibier and be inspired to visit Tokyo for an unforgettable and delicious wild meat experience!

What is gibier?

Gibier is a French term meaning wild game and has long been a traditional delicacy among European aristocrats. The types of wild game available vary by country and region, ranging from hare, deer, wild boar, and bears to birds like mallard and duck. In some countries, even wild kangaroos and alligators are part of the gibier tradition.

In the past, in France and other countries, gibier was considered so precious that only the aristocracy, who could hunt on their own estates, had access to it.

Because of this, gibier has long been regarded as a luxury ingredient in French cuisine, cherished as a refined and special delicacy.

The essence of gibier cuisine lies in honoring the life of the animal by utilizing every part, from the meat to the organs and bones, and not letting its precious life go to waste.
Wild game, having roamed freely across mountains and fields, is lean, rich in nutrients, and a true gift from nature. It is a rare and exceptional delicacy, brimming with strength and vitality.

※Reference: Japan Gibier Promotion Association

Side A Refining the Great Potential of Gibier in Tokyo

Norihiko Fujiki
President, Japan Gibier Promotion Association

In recent years, gibier cuisine has become increasingly popular in Japan, especially in French restaurants. Dishes featuring venison and other wild game are becoming more common on menus.

This culinary shift can be attributed to the ongoing efforts of the Japan Gibier Promotion Association, which works to promote the value of gibier as a delicacy while also addressing various social issues surrounding the industry.

We interviewed Norihiko Fujiki, the president of the association, about his 20 years of involvement with the group and to learn more about their approach to spreading accurate knowledge about gibier in Japan.

Norihiko Fujiki

Becoming more familiar with the exciting new culinary culture of gibier

Damage to crops caused by wild birds and other animals has been increasing year by year. In 2023 alone, the total damage amounted to 16.4 billion yen, with 1.24 million※ deer and wild boar captured across Japan to help mitigate further harm. However, only about 10% of these animals were used for meat.

The Japan Ghibier Promotion Association works to promote the use of the remaining 90%, which has traditionally been discarded, as meat to be consumed. It's crucial to utilize gibier as a resource to avoid wasting the lives of animals we’ve captured. We take pride in our efforts, not only in addressing the damage caused by wild animals but also in contributing to regional revitalization.

※From the Ministry of the Environment's “Preliminary figures on the number of Japanese Sika deer and wild boar captured in 2023” (published August 30, 2024).

https://www.env.go.jp/nature/choju/docs/docs4/sokuhou.pdf

To begin, gibier is highly attractive as an ingredient. It is not only delicious, but also very nutritious. Venison is lean, with little fat, and offers a fresh yet rich flavor. Wild boar, on the other hand, is known for its low-fat melting point, which allows the fat to melt in your mouth in each bite.

Unlike cattle and pigs raised in captivity, wild bird, and other animals feed on natural food from their local environment, which imparts unique regional characteristics and flavors, giving each game its distinct taste. Additionally, gibier is high in protein and rich in iron. In particular, venison is low in calories and fat, making it a fantastic choice for those mindful of health and beauty.

Until recently, however, the hunting, processing, and cooking techniques required to prepare delicious gibier were not widely practiced, leading to the misconception that gibier is not tasty. To promote the enjoyment of delicious gibier, the Association has been holding training sessions to educate the public on proper cooking methods.

Additionally, in our efforts to preserve the natural flavor of gibier, we recognized the importance of ensuring safety when handling wild meat. We urged the government to establish nationwide guidelines for sanitary management, as these had not yet been set. In response, the Ministry of Health, Labor, and Welfare introduced hygiene management guidelines in 2014, followed by the creation of the Domestic Gibier Certification System in 2018. This system certifies processing facilities that comply with these hygiene standards.

Thanks to these efforts, deer and other game species are increasingly recognized in Japan as a safe and reliable new food source.

A gibier cooking seminar conducted by The Japan Ghibier Promotion Association for members of the Japan Association of Training Colleges for Cooks.

Development of a mobile butchering vehicle equipped with facilities necessary for hygienic meat processing.

Gibier cuisine that is only available in Japan

On the other hand, while there is currently little demand for people to visit Japan specifically to eat gibier, we don’t see the barrier to trying wild game as particularly high here. We believe there is enormous potential for people to enjoy gibier dishes if they happen to visit a restaurant in Japan and encounter dishes that are familiar and close to traditional Japanese cuisine, such as minced pork cutlets, sukiyaki hot pot, and kushiyaki grilled skewers.

One of the outstanding elements of Japanese gibier is its careful handling, with a strong emphasis on hygiene. This results in a controlled, subtle aroma, though those familiar with gibier may find it lacking the boldness of its European counterpart. Rich sauces and robust wines that pair well with the intensity of European gibier might be harder to match with the more delicate flavor of Japanese gibier.

So, what kind of dishes feature Japanese gibier? One dish that surprised me at a ryotei traditional Japanese style restaurant was venison that had been dried like bonito flakes and sliced thinly to make dashi (Japanese soup stock). I was impressed by its delicious flavor, which was used in chawanmushi (steamed egg custard) and taki awase (simmered vegetables).

This opened my eyes to the incredible potential of Japanese gibier, with its delicate and unique Japanese flavor that still retains its wild game qualities. I’d love for people overseas to know that Japan has these one-of-a-kind gibier dishes, which can only be found here.

Variety is at the heart of Tokyo Gibier

When considering the future growth of gibier culture, we strongly believe that Tokyo, as Japan’s food capital, has the potential to play a major role.

I can easily see gibier, which is traditionally a regional delicacy, permeating Tokyo, a major hub for dining, where it can be elevated through diverse cooking styles and refined by the discerning tastes of patrons. In Tokyo, skilled chefs who have trained extensively in their field will work using gibier, and international visitors will also have more opportunity than ever before to experience it.

Tokyo provides the perfect environment for fostering a unique and evolving gibier scene with its rich and diverse food culture. What makes Tokyo especially interesting is that it’s not just a place to enjoy gibier through traditional French or Japanese cuisine, but also offers a wide range of alternative culinary styles that incorporate it. From casual dishes like gibier curry and gibier buns to more refined preparations, Tokyo embraces the wide versatility that gibier has to offer. I believe this diversity is what defines Tokyo gibier.

Ideally, gibier culture, after being refined in Tokyo, will make its way back out to the various regions of Japan, enriched with new culinary techniques and broader appeal. By doing so, gibier can continue to evolve as a safe, delicious part of Japan’s food culture, spreading across the country with even greater depth and diversity.

With the establishment of hygiene management guidelines and the legal recognition of wild game as meat for consumption, those of us who have been promoting delicious gibier feel that we are finally at the starting line for its safe distribution. However, there is still a long way to go before gibier becomes a common part of everyday dining. Moving forward, we will continue to promote the appeal of gibier, both in Japan and internationally.

Side B Experiencing Delicious Gibier Because it is in Tokyo

Takuto Murota
Owner and chef of French restaurant LATURE and wild game hunter

Takuto Murota is a hunter himself. Murota says he took up hunting to serve the best possible food to his customers. In an era where everything is just a click away, he chooses to go out into the field, hunt with his own hands, and cook with a deep respect for life. We spoke with Murota, the owner and chef of the French restaurant LATURE, about his deep passion for gibier.

Takuto Murota

I want to make gibier more accessible to patrons who have never tried it before

My first experience with gibier came after I decided to become a French chef. I believe it was roast venison that I first tasted, and I was deeply impressed by both the tradition of eating wild meat and its rich flavors.

The charm of gibier lies in its uniqueness. No two pieces of meat are ever the same. Unlike beef or pork, the taste and texture of gibier vary greatly depending on its environment, diet, age, and the season in which it was hunted. The venison you enjoy today may taste completely different from the one served in another season. Finding the best way to bring out the flavors of these ever-changing ingredients is a challenge for any chef, and it’s one that I personally love.

I hope our customers not only appreciate the deliciousness of our food but also experience the seasonality and the stories behind the ingredients. I also enjoy the conversations with customers, like when they say, “Today's dish is so rich in flavor” or “This one is incredibly tender.” It’s unique moments like these that make gibier cuisine so fascinating.

A roast of Yezo sika deer. Unlike other game meat, venison does not have a strong flavor, which is what makes it such a profound ingredient.

I started hunting about 20 years ago. In fact, the reason I got my hunting license was to deepen my understanding of gibier, and it has had a big influence on how I approach it in my cooking.

When I went hunting for the first time, the heart of the duck I had caught was still beating, and the warmth left a strong impression on me. Holding it, I felt the deep responsibility of taking a life. Preparing a dish begins the moment you catch the animal. It made me realize that we must be grateful for the life we've received and use every part of it in the best way possible to enhance its flavor. This experience completely changed my perspective. I hope that when you eat the food I prepare, you will feel the same way.

It’s true that some customers who haven’t tried gibier may think that wild meat is challenging to eat. However, properly hunted and butchered gibier is truly delicious, with no unpleasant odor or toughness. For newcomers, we first start with dishes like venison that are easy to enjoy and aim to get them to gain appreciation for gibier. Once they’re interested, we introduce more complex flavors, such as matured or wild flavors, so they can experience the richness and full depth of the meat. We take a step-by-step approach, always focusing on helping our patrons discover for themselves just how delicious gibier can be.

A net-caught mallard roast. I feel a deep responsibility in taking a life for food, and therefore strive to cook it in the most delicious way possible.

A new reason for visitors with a strong interest in unique culture to visit Japan

Gibier is quite popular among overseas patrons, especially those from Asia. About 30 to 50% of our restaurant’s patrons come from abroad. If you've visited Japan several times, I’m sure you’ve had sushi here or back in your own country. However, gibier, an ingredient with strong regional characteristics, is different everywhere you go, and Japanese gibier can only be enjoyed within Japan. Many Asian countries don’t have much gibier culture, so it's quite common for visitors to have never tried it. Japan has a long history of hunting, and wild game has remained a valuable food source even withstanding times when hunting was strictly prohibited. For foreign visitors with a deep interest in unique cultures, coming to enjoy gibier cuisine can be a great reason to visit Japan.

Japanese gibier is different from its Western counterparts. The species caught here are different, and even the same species tend to be smaller and more delicate in flavor. While Japanese gibier may seem less substantial to those used to eating wild gibier from overseas, I believe this is a positive, as it makes it more approachable and easier to enjoy for a wider range of people.

Due to the difference in characteristics, we don't use the same techniques as in traditional French cuisine. Instead, we've adapted our own cooking methods to suit the more delicate nature of Japanese gibier. For example, we pair wild boar with seafood or bear with sansho Japanese pepper. My perspective on cooking has evolved as I've welcomed an increasing number of patrons from overseas. I've come to focus more on creating dishes that seamlessly blend French cuisine with Japanese culinary culture. I believe that Western visitors who are familiar with gibier will be drawn to the unique preparation and flavors of Japanese gibier, which they can't find in their own countries.

A pâté en croute with foie gras wrapped in minced meat of deer, bear, wild boar, and badger. A dish that captures the essence of gibier and Murota’s ingenuity.

Tokyo as a prime destination to enjoy Gibier

We don't see Tokyo's distance from the source as a disadvantage when it comes to enjoying gibier. Just as Japan's finest fish are brought to Toyosu market, top-quality gibier is brought to Tokyo from all over the country. Tokyo is a hub for everything, from entertainment to sightseeing, and offers a unique opportunity to experience Japan’s wilderness through its ingredients and cuisine, all within the city.

Tokyo has a wide variety of restaurants, skilled chefs, food trends from around the world, and the discerning eyes of both Japanese and international foodies. In addition, you’ll find a creative fusion of cooking methods and ingredients that can’t be found elsewhere.

In fact, I believe that it’s because it’s Tokyo that you can truly experience the full range of delightfulness that gibier has to offer. The gibier you enjoy here is a special kind of cuisine that you can only taste in Tokyo.

A delicious story with each unique encounter

The Japan Gibier Promotion Association is passionate about promoting delicious gibier in Japan. In Tokyo, chefs are delivering exquisite gibier dishes with a deep sense of responsibility and respect for life. We’ve uncovered the strong passion of such individuals who are paving the way for the future of gibier cuisine.

Gibier is bound to play a key role in Japan’s evolving food culture and offer “a delicious story with each unique encounter” that can only be told here in Tokyo. The encounters and experiences are as numerous as the plates you’ll enjoy.

To experience this exciting new gourmet culture, be sure to try Japanese gibier cuisine here in Tokyo for yourself!